What's it really like?
We had planned to go to the Provence area of France this year as it is an area that we haven't ever been to. Looking for sites in various places such as Avignon, Ales, Carpentras and Arles, to name but a few that I have looked at, my initial impression is that the whole area does not look that 'pretty'. Guide books show photos of touristy places but by going onto Streetview on Google Earth and 'driving' along many roads the area, to me, looks to be not very inspiring. Am I wrong?
We don't want to go right to the coast as we aren't beach people and prefer hilly or mountainous areas which, to my surprise, Provence doesn't seem to be.
Do we change our plans and go back to somewhere in the Annecy region, an area that we love.
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Oh my word you couldn't be more wrong! Its beautiful. Have a look at my blog on our trip there to see the photos of some of the areas, We loved it.
https://jennyandjohngocaravanning.wordpress.com/2015/06/12/provence-aude-and-millau/
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Stay at Maussane les Alpilles, just on the south side of the Alpilles range of hills with St.Remy de Provence on the north. You can walk up into the Alpilles, maybe to Les Baux. It's an excellent range of low level hills but because there is a lot of flat land in the surrounding area then it looks bigger. The walking is excellent and there's nothing better in late Spring than sun on your back, smelling the wild herbs such thyme and rosemary under your feet looking across the plains to Mont Ventoux or down to the Camargue.
Alternatively stay in Ile de la Sorgue or Gordes or Rousillion and experience the Luberon which can be quite hilly. We've done some great walking from Ile de la Sorgue and you are able to visit Avignon.
Some of the area around Arles can be flat and dusty but we actually love the Camargue area. It's completely different. Plenty of variety in the Provence if you look for it.
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Oh dear, Wherenext, you are giving all our secrets away...
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Thanks all for your replies.
Jenny, I've started to read your blog but will have to return to it, probably tomorrow. What I have read so far is very interesting.
David, we've been to Millau on a couple of occasions. We do love the area but it's is only two years since we were there.
Wherenext, I'll have a look at the places that you have suggested. Thanks.
Incidentally, we are going for three weeks from mid June if that makes any particular difference.
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John, Provence (or most of it) is beautiful. You are right in saying that driving (some of) the roads around Avignon, Arles, Carpentras, can be a bit underwhelming, but get further inland (or east) as suggested and it's hillier and very beautiful. In the 'flatter' part of Provence St Remy de Provence is a nice place to stay, a pretty town, with some nice campsites and one of the best Provencal markets we've found with lovely local food, and delightful smells as you walk around the stalls in the narrow streets. . We also loved the roman remains at Glanum, which is built into the sides of a narrowish wooded valley, and has some very atmospheric buildings still standing. From there it's an easy day trip to Avignon to see the beauty whilst avoiding that big city feel, or to Arles and the Camargue.
Inland in Provence in some areas you'll smell the scent of lavender long before you see it, there are very pretty villages, some built precipitously into the hillsides, green forests, cascades and lakes, blue-green rivers and the 'light' in Provence is like nowhere else. This along with the colour of the houses, and the roof tiles makes it a very photogenic part of France. Riez is another 'market town', set in the middle of lavender fields, and again has a fantastic Provencal market selling food rather than 'tourist tat'.
If I were planning Provence, then I might first visit the Vercors area to the east of the Rhone Valley, which has some very dramatic scenery, then perhaps the Parc regional des Baronnies Provencales, which will be quieter, and yet has some lovely scenery, Then I would visit Eurotraveller's suggestions and include the Apilles, then St Remy, or alternatively visit the area around the Gorge du Verdon, All these will offer hills and (small) mountains and will give you all the flavours of Provence.
We're going back to Provence this year - as it's a few years since we last visited.
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I must admit that when we go south we always head for the sea. OK some of the immediate hinterland is not as attractive although there are lots of places just back from the coast which are you just have to search them out. We will all have our own view of what we like which is not always easily transfer to another person as tastes differ. Lots of Blogs here of trips to France and elsewhere that might give you a taste.
David
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Our first impression of France was a country full of derelict houses and a fairly sombre population. Unfortunately the stereotypical English/French abrasion also seemed alive and kicking.
However after 2 one month periods in France in the past 2 years we have become more familiar with the country and it's people. We now don't notice the differences as much and because we don't stay for more than a few days in any one place we find a really fascination and exciting country!
Have never had a bad first impression in all the other European and Scandinavian countries before this one!
We probably won't visit again because even after more than 50 years touring there are still other places to visit.
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- Provence is my idea of heaven, especially in Spring. We last visited mid March 4 years ago.. The towns, the markets Avignon, Arles, Nîmes, St Rèmy, The back road to Les Baux , to the right before you reach St Remy coming from Arles,. Fontvieille. Awe inspiring and breath taking. ...
- Except for the main tourist centres the roads aren't packed even in summer.
- The beauty doesn't always hit you smack in the face but it is well worth making the effort to find it. Sometimes unexpectedly, like when we climbed up through a village to find the hilltop church and found a meadow full of flowers with views over large tracts of both the Rhone and Gardon valleys.
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John I dont think you will be dissapointed with inland Provence. We have been going to ST Remy de Provence for the last 25 years and find it perfect. Camping Mas de Nicolas is a good bet and well kept. I would not suggest camp sites in the bigger cities - some of them are a bit shabby, but the smaller town sites are almost all very good.
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I love Provence, but tend to prefer the inland areas. There are some lovely areas to visit. The places that come immediately to mind are
- Mt Ventoux, in the area just north of Carpentras. It you want hills, this is it! You can drive up and the views are fantastic. We usually stay at Camping Bregoux at Aubignan near Carpentras. While you are in the area visit Vaison La Romaine, the Roman amphitheatre at Orange, Avignon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (of wine fame), a trip down the Luberon.
- Another area is the Verdon and Artby rivers. The Grand Canyon de Verdon is worth a visit. We usually do a day visit to the area when we are staying on the coast.
- If you stay on the coast there are plenty of places to visit as well as the coast itself. Some of the hilltop villages such as Mons and other too. Do visit Monaco, just for the experience.
There are so many places to visit..... I have only just tickled the surface.
David
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John - if you want to search through the 'story' I did of our visit to France in 2014 and 2016, there are sections of when we stayed in Provence. You will need to scroll down to the comment boxed for photos, which you may find useful.
Regards
David
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Please please dont go, its terrible, weather awful and nothing to do or see!! (at least thats what I tell everyone planning on visiting my little bit of heaven, and camping monplaiser at st remy is dire!!)
We have been visiting for 22 years and now have bought a caravan to leave so that we can visit more often, give provence a try, and maybe June or early July is a good first time. regards
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John, having read your comments on the Alps thread on here as we, read I, are considering it for this year, if you want the dramatic scenery like that then possibly you won't like Provence which is much gentler.
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Thanks everyone for your replies. They have been very useful and have helped make up our minds to give Provence a try.
Over the years we have stayed in many different areas of France including Normandy, Brittany, Alsace, Savoy, Drome, Dordogne, Aveyron and Ariege so very mixed scenery / places. The only place that we didn't really like and wouldn't go back was the west coast in the Vendee / Charente-Maritime areas. It just wasn't for us.
As this next trip may turn out to be the last that we can do to France I didn't want it to be disappointing. All the guide books that we have looked at made Provence look very attractive to us but just wanted a bit of confirmation that it really was as nice as it looked.
Thanks again everyone.
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I agree with all the positive comments made; like DSB we have stayed at Camping le Bregoux at Aubignan a number of times; it's a lovely site with some big pitches. Unlike you we have a MH and do a lot of cycling so a different type of holiday. However, from Aubignan we have cycled to Carpentras every time we've stayed, and the Friday market is wonderful. We've also stayed in St Remy like a lot of earlier posters and again, that too is a nice area, with a market on Wednesdays, one of the nicest we've been to. L'Isle sur la Sorgue is another town with a good market on Thursdays and Sundays
It's also worth heading slightly east from there into the Luberon and staying at Apt; a beautiful area with yet another fantastic market on Saturdays. Apt isn't that far east from the Avignon/Orange area, but the scenery is possibly more what you are looking for.
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John. As already said, Provence, and for me Le Pont du Gard and Arles are my idea of paradise.
However, like you, when I first visited the Vendée I was disappointed. We bought a mobile home there for convenience and because the summers aren't so hot. After 9 years I can assure you, although the views may not be so breath taking, as an area it is just as s interesting and has just as much to give as Provence. It's just different!
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Having decided to give Provence a try in view of all your comments, we are thinking of spending a few days, en route, at Aubenas on the N102. There appears to be quite a lot of caravan sites in the area. Does anyone have any recommendations for any in particular ?
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John, Do you want a farm site near Aubenas or a four star? There are both of those. But something in between the two is Camping Turelure, about ten miles south of Aubenas.
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To answer Eurotraveller's question, we aren't particularly bothered about a pool or an on-site bar or restaurant so it doesn't have to be 5 star as far as on-site facilities go.
Utopia would be a site that is not too big, not crowded and was tidy. It would have decent showers / toilets although we are quite happy to use our on-board facilities if there is a tap providing a good water supply not too far away. Ideally the pitch would be reasonably flat, some partial shade and was of a reasonably good size - 80 to 100 sq m. Grass would be a bonus but in that area I guess green stuff is at a bit of a premium (I may be wrong in this assumption). A decent view would be another bonus. Preferably the site wouldn't be next to a main or busy road. As we are going in low season, (mid to late June), an ACSI site would be good as would a municipal which, from experience, can often be about the same price as ACSI.
As I wrote above, this would be our Utopia which we don't expect to get having been to France many times and had all sorts of sites and pitches, some never to be returned to.
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
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I have come a bit late to this but if it's still of use Provence is fantastic.
Great countryside and cycling. We have cycled Mont Ventoux but it is a serious proposition. We stayed here.
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