Floor bounce
After a few days of proper difficult decisions regarding drilling floors filling with one shot green ,we did it ,no more bounce solid as a rock. Phew.
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Hi I've got the same problem with the floor of my Lunar Delta I've been quoted £600-£750 for doing just the central walkway! I'd appreciate it if you could tell me how you went about it, i.e. what did you use, what spacing / pattern did you come up with, what depth did you drill to ensure all gaps were filled?
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Hi, we were phased out by prices. It cost us £30. Cut vinyl flooring out following pattern of the area you need repairing then drill 8mm holes to a depth of 30 mm 4 inches apart make sure the depth takes you to the bottom wood panel and not through it, cover each hole with masking tape and pierce, this stops the green escaping onto your floor. We filled with green 2525 epoxy resin bought from local caravan shop £15.you will also need 8x30 mm dowels to bung each hole.gently pour green in until nearly flush with the floor.keep pressing the floor to disperse and top up, do not over fill ,once all dowels are in you have to weigh the floor down we used 4 x 12 packs of water. Leave for 48hrs remove masking tape sand excess green and dowel to make smooth.vinyl put back with double sided carpet tape. 5 days away last week solid as a rock.hope this helps.
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Thanks for the update twocals, sorry for the delay in responding but I've been away. This will be my first job after the Christmas break.
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Thanks "twocals".
Not that I need it, but still wishing to better understand the technique.
Am I right in reading as the holes and dowels are both 30mm deep, the final structural arrangement leaves the floor effectively on a multitude of dowel strut piles?
ie the compressive loads now are no longer solely via the foam core, but primarily the dowels from the top to bottom ply skins?
Should that be the principle, I can see it might be wise in initially determining the depth others need to drill their floors, then almost finger screwing the drill bit whilst going through the soft foam so as to "find" the opposing ply wood without puncturing it.
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If the holes are filled with resin, tapping dowels in the full depth must create a fair bit of hydraulic pressure that has to go somewhere. Is this to force the resin to expand through the surrounding foam?
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Hi, all just noticed this start again. Yes i drilled the floor then hand screwed the drill bit through the foam till i hit wood. I seem to remember it was about 33 mil ,the foam was very broken and powdery in places.the bungs were very easy to push in and like cy says i guess it spreads to all places as it expands.the bungs also stop the resiin escaping as well as offering rigidity to the foor.
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