Gentle tour through France from North to South
This is my first discussion so apologies if this question has been asked before. I have tried to find a thread but without success.
I am taking an extended break in September and will be towing a caravan through France from North to South, ending in the Langdouc Rousillon area. I can depart from either Dover/Calais; Newhaven/Dieppe or Poole/Cherbourg. I am not imposing any limits on how far I travel in a day or how long I stay in each location. I will book a single fare out and return when I am ready.
I would like to stop off in small towns or villages with local charm or history. There are no children and I will be the only driver.
If anyone has done this could they give me details of the routes they took, stop off places and recommended sites, I am happy with all form of sites including Municipal ones.
I can use Google maps, via Michellin, etc. but nothing beats information from people who have actually done the journey.
Thanks in anticipation.
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It's hard to advise because I don't know your interests, but this guide book might be worth buying. Take a good site guide as well because smaller rural sites start closing from mid September onwards. I hope it goes well.
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As EuroT says, it is difficult to give specific advice as we do not know your hobbies. Members on here will give plenty of advice if for example you like Photography or Cycling or Birdwatching or Mountain Walking etc.
With regard to pretty villages you can find plenty in Brittany (think Cornwall with Crepes instead of pasties), Dordogne, Provence, Luberon, Midi Pyrenees etc. Although you said you couldn't find any threads I think if you trawl through the Overseas section slowly you will find other similar requests with plenty of info in them.
Anyway come back with more details.
With regard to sites then the Clubs France site guide will help. Look in Shop and Offers, found at top of page. Also contact them regarding ferry deals when you decide on routes.
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What have you got against Portsmouth, then? Snubbing the city of my birth.
Portsmouth/ Caen gives you Pegasus Bridge, Bayeux tapestry almost before you've adjusted to driving on the other side of the road.
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We did a similar thing, but it's now nearly thirty years ago - our first trip with a caravan in France, but not our first camping. We chose Dover/Calais as our preferred route because of cost, and because the timings were much more convenient for us, and didn't necessitate an overnight crossing (expensive) or a stay near the port.
We went 'non-toll' (or almost - we did the first section down to St Quentin on the autoroute - down to Mery-sur-Seine where there was a nice municipal where we stayed a couple of nights and we visited Troyes, and one of the lakes (we love bird-watching). From there we went down to Dompierre-Les-Ormes where we stayed at Villages de Meuniers, and visited Clunty, Macon, and various other places. Onwards down to Remoulins where we stayed at La Soubeyranne and visited Nimes, the Pont du Gard, the Ardeche, and various other natural sites. Then on down to the coast at Grau de Roil (Le Tivoli), swimming and beaches, on to Carcassonne (Le Martinet Rouge at Brousse-et-Villaret) where we visited Carcassonne, the paper mill at Brousse, and lots of other areas. From there we headed back up to the Dordogne where we stayed at Aqua Viva...........and 'did' the famous sites of the Dordogne,. and then back to Calais.
Bear in mind that some of these sites were chosen because they suited my children and I wouldn't necessarily chose them these days.
I would get myself an ACSI Card (www.campingcard.co.uk) and choose sites from there that I like the look of, near to places that I wanted to visit. That way you can work out your own perfect holiday. Our first one was such a great experience that we've caravanned in France (and other parts of Europe - but always one French holiday per year) every year since.0 -
It's a long way down and a long way back, especially if you're taking your time and not using motorways. Many French campsites start to close in early September, so you really need to do some research on what campsites will be open.
What's the rush down to the south west? Why not just tour around Brittany in September? We're on the Cote d'Azur right now, a thousand miles from home. We got here at a leisurely pace on the Peage, avoiding village speed limits, roundabouts, traffic lights and speed bumps.
A leisurely pace will not get you to Languedoc and back in a month.
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My blogs cover quite a large area of France with pictures of sites and information about what to see. We do tend to use peages for ease of getting to places but there are several routes mentioned.
https://jennyandjohngocaravanning.wordpress.com/2015/06/12/provence-aude-and-millau/
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It can be done but moving on 200 miles at a time will invariably miss out a lot of nice places. I agree with the sentiments of chasncath that there is a lot to be seen without driving a particularly long way. There is currently a discussion on facebook where a poster intends to drive through France as quick as possible ( with 2 young children) to spend 2 weeks on a site in Spain - Why when the same sorts of sites can be found much nearer home?
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Brookmans, more ideas...though I can only tell you what I would do and it might not interest you at all.
Instead of starting at Calais I would begin at Dieppe, which deserves a day in itself, then along the coast to Etretat and Yport where the Impressionists painted, go to see see the art gallery in Le Havre, spend a full day or even two days in Rouen, and then on to Monet's garden at Giverny.
Having dawdled for almost a week in the north it would be two big jumps across middle France, which never interests me very much, to go back to the prehistoric painted caves at Les Eyzies, market day at Bergerac or Sarlat, some of the bastide villages like Monpazier, certainly the water lily garden at Le Temple sur Lot, explore Agen on foot, cafe crawling in Toulouse, divert to Albi to see that astonishing cathedral and the Toulouse Lautrec paintings, definitely miss out Carcassonne but go over the hills to Mirepoix. That area might well take another week.
But Languedoc Rousillon? Well only Collioure.
Enjoy your planning.
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Languedoc Roussillon - what to see (as Eurotraveller is very scathing).
Collioure because in September it won't be as busy, but I would also visit
Gruissan and the Chapel d'Auzils,
Peyriac de Mer for the walkways over the boardwalks and close ups with flamingoes
Any of the larger Cathar castles, and the Gorges de Galamus
Some of the smaller Cathar castles where you can wander around free of charge
Carcassonne, but in the evening when it's less manic - and treat it with a pinch of salt.
Minerve and the vineyards of the Minervois
The Canal du Midi (or certain of the better sections including the nine locks at Fonserranes)
The Abbe de Fontfroide and the beautiful rose gardens
The Abbe de St Michel du Cuxa
The Pont du Gard and the arena in Nimes
The Gorges du Tarn and the Millau viaduct
Aigues-Mortes and the Camargue
And lots, lots more - which is why we now have a house there!0 -
I rarely disagree with Eurotraveller but I have to say that our holiday in Languedoc Roussilon was one of the best holidays for scenery that I have ever had.
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We are doing something similar to the OP in Sep, although we have booked Portsmouth - Caen (that will keep Cyber happy
). We got the best price by some margin booking through the Club. Likewise no children and only one driver
. I hesitate to suggest nice places to visit as there are so many and everyone has different tastes. You have been given a few ideas already but as a crude rule of thumb inland villages tend to have much more character than coastal ones Give us a river or lake and a small village to which we can walk and we are happy. Sites referred to as 'lively' are given a wide margin!We have no firm plans but our thought are to stay a couple of nights at Riva Bella near the port from where we will visit lovely Honfleur. Then we will have a few days in Swiss Normandy then on to Brittany and then to the Lot area although this plan may well change if the weather gods do not cooperate. Also, we do not take a full awning just a roll out Fiamma Caravanstore sun canopy. From our southern point we will drive back to Caen just overnighting as required. We have no thoughts to go to the Languedoc area as we used to live there and know it very well. However, to give the OP a guide, tugging a caravan will take 2 and a bit days from Beziers to the channel ports via the A75/Rouen. We plan on 3 x 2 hour stints a day and find that 250 miles a day is achieved quite easily. Yes, many sites in France do close mid Sep but if you arm yourselves with ACSI book and the Club France guide you will see that there ae plenty open until late Sep early Oct. Coastal sites in Languedoc/Rousillon do tend to close mid Sep so worth checking; having said that, it is a great area for a holiday.
Have a great trip and maybe we will see you on the road
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Have just seen Val's post and totally agree. You can also go up into the Pyrenees and try the Yellow Train if the weather is fine as it should be in Sep. Add Avignon, having an aperitif on the banks of the Canal d'Midi at Homps, the Orb Valley even Grau d'Agde a little shabby but you will get a lovely meal as you will in Meze - and a bottle of reasonably priced Pic Pol which is made next door! If you are in to doors (seriously) then a visit to Pezenas is a must! The vineyards near our former stamping ground of St Chinian are well worth a visit They have smartened up the 9 locks at Beziers not as nice as before but still fascinating to see.
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FROM BROOKMANS 1
Thanks fo all the advice, For the record my interests are historical buildings, churches etc. and photography. It used to include a lot of walking but advancing years has slowed this down.
I have an ACIS card and have just purchased the book Back Roads in France recommended by Eurotraveller, first impressions are very positive. I will also be looking at the Clubs France Site guide.
As for time, it is not important for me as I am retired, I have only recently returned to caravanning after some 30 years following the children growing up.
When they were young we towed a van to the Costa Brava every summer taking a 4 week break, we tried many different routes including using the Peages for the whole journey. I personally found that due to the limited speed when towing a caravan and the good condition of the N roads that this was was more relaxing and interesting journey, often we would use the free sections of Peage. We would catch an evening ferry and stay overnight in Calais, leaving very early in the morning, We would travel 400 mile plus taking 10-11 hours and stop at a site early evening.The following day would be the same and we would arrive in Spain late afternoon/early evening.The reason for the mad dash was that the children wanted to spend as much of the holiday as possible on the Spanish campsite and were happy with the long drives. I was a lot a lot younger then and it was no big deal.
We would also travel to France and Germany during the early and late school holidays but these were much shorter journeys.
You might now understand a little more why I want to return to European towing at a slower pace so that I can appreciate more the locations and scenery I am passing through.
Please keep the advice coming.
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You would be very lucky to achieve anything like the distance you used to using the N roads these days. Firstly, the speed limit is now 80 kph; next, there is a proliferation of speed bumps and roundabouts all over the network. Against this, the cost of towing a caravan on the autoroutes is very high. On our trip in Sep we will try to avoid autoroutes as much as possible.
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Some advice on where you pitch rather than route advice! If you notice a drop in temperature during the latter half of September, don’t pitch up under any big trees. Our motorhome was invaded by Brown Marmorated Stink Bugs, hundreds of them, about 26/27 Sep. They got in late afternoon by crawling in under the window nets whilst we were out on our bikes. When we returned from the bike ride we noticed hundreds of these bugs, which are the size of my thumb nail, on the outside of the van and about 36 on the inside. This was day 12 of a six week tour down to Spain which was a disaster. We have been killing these bugs ever since. They still keep coming out of hiding when it is very warm, 4 last week. When we got home Rentokil wanted £2,500 to clear them, but we were advised they would leave, without breeding when it got warm!
This was last Sep/Oct; for our route we crossed Poole to Cherbourg and stayed o/n at Utah Beach, then two nights at the municipal camping de l’Autize in Maillezais. Then a fantastic week in Brantome, where we had planned two nights. From there we headed for Moissac on the river Tarn and camping Le Moulin de Bidounet, which is the place the bugs invaded. Instead of a planned 5 night stay we left next day. The warden told us that these bugs dropped out of the trees when the temp’ dropped and were looking for somewhere to sleep for the Winter. Another British couple a few pitches away were also invaded. A Dutch family next to us left early next morning, without speaking to us. We then headed down to The Bay of Roses to start our Spain leg of the tour, which was excellent apart from sleeping with Stinky Beetles!
Best of luck with your trip and enjoy.
BillC
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Never experienced a bug invasion like that Kontikiboy!
Message is don't camp under trees in late summer. A few suggestions for the OP for villages. Sarlat in the Dordogne although busy is well worth a visit, ACSI 1814 is on the edge of the town and an easy walk in but a steep walk back. The site itself is terraced but quite nice. An evening visit to Sarlat, when it is much quieter, is recommended
Cordes - sur- Ciel. A lovely village. Nearby site ACSI 2369, Camping Camp Redon is fine. Also ACSI 2370, not stayed there. A tip: it is a VERY steep walk up one side of the village; however, you can drive around the village to the top end and find a place to park.
Conques. This is a lovely old village with an ancient church and genuine old buildings. You have to park at the entrance but it is an easy walk up. You will pass an umbrella maker! ACSI 2368 is nearby.
Of course a visit to the Loire valley with it's Chateaux is recommended. Sites a plenty so take your pick.
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If heading to the Dordogne (oodles of photographic opportunities) then call in at pretty Domme. There is a decent ACSI campsite nearby, Perpetuum. Lovely owners in a walnut plantation. We found Rocamadour a bit overrated but necessary to find that out ourselves. Unfortunately I don't have my journal from that time with me as we are away but the whole area around Domme was interesting.
Chinon, Chenonceaux and all along the Loire will provide plenty of small places worth a visit. Call in at the museum dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci in Amboise. It's great plus it's a big celebration of his work this year. Highly recommended plus Amboise itself is worth a visit.
Will post more when I think of them.
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I was just looking at our last visit to France about eight years ago sans van but we wandered off from the north west via Rennes and south to some of the local villages (to look at ancient churches etc.) heading for Saumur on the Loire. I'd been before but the Chateaux are worth seeing, Chenonceau, Azay le Rideau etc too many to mention but all with a history in a variety of settings and some wine tasting too in the Loire valley vineyards en route. Look up the French tourism sites for local details.
After that we headed to friends in the Limousin and visited places on the Creuse. I missed Aubusson and the tapestries, I'd like to go back sometime!
Not far to the Dordogne from there and onwards to the southwest. A big country and a lot to see.
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We are currently into our 25th day of this trip.
We crossed Hull -Zeebrugge on the 5th of May, first stop near Rouen 1 night, then Chateauroux 2 nights, Cahors 4 nights, Cordes 2 nights, Agde 8 nights, Pont du Gard 4 nights, Lac du Marandan 2 nights and currently at a site for 5 nights near Aix en Bains.
Rushed! no way. Back roads is the norm but we will use a toll road if it is worth it.
Last September we travelled down from Zeebrugge to the Med stopping off on the way as we do, left the med on 6th October and took 8 days to travel up to Caen for the ferry home on the 14th we stopped at 3 sites on the way up and had lovely weather apart from one night storm.
France is a great place to tour, stop when you feel like it move when you've had enough. In September it will be quiter than it is just now as there is no public holidays, the French have either gone home or fled to Spain for the winter.
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This is becoming one of the more useful discussions on CT for those of us who love touring in France; thank you for starting it Brookmans. We have not yet mentioned the Bourogne area which could be en route if you go west of the A75 or the Ardeche. The list could be endless which just goes to show what a wonderful and diverse country for touring France is. Tammygirl has got it about right and her trip could be ideal for you. One of the joys of touring is the planning but be flexible and go with the flow. In September you will have no problem finding sites anywhere. Enjoy
.You mentioned somewhere that you had toured in Germany. A few years ago we discovered the Algau area of Bavaria SW of Kempton. Lovely and last time we visited we were the only Brits! But that would be for another trip for you.
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If heading East then you could take in Troyes and Beaune, two smallish towns with interesting architecture. Both have municipals on the edge of town that will suffice.
Then if you manage to get down towards Nimes you have places like St.Remy de Provence, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Arles with its ampitheatrs and Van Gogh connections (also at St.Remy). Goodness I feel like another trip down through France coming on.
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Hi Brookmans, one more idea before this thread dies.
You said you had an interest in historical buildings so you might like to go and find this one.
Yes, it's in France.
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I agree, an amazing place, and all built by one man who took over thirty years to build it, carrying the extraordinary sculpted stones with him, initially in his pocket, then a basket, and eventually a wheelbarrow! It's worth a visit for anyone who loves the surreal!
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Have a heart Eurotraveller. We haven't found it in 30 years of going to France so we might not have enough years left and it is the sort of thing I love to visit. Where is it? Please!
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Ha ha ! A clue. It's on page 1048 of the Rough Guide to France, the 2007 edition. Does that help?
Brst regards to you. Are you still travelling?
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If I right click on the photo I can "ask Cortana" about it, this comes up with related photos, lo and behold the Daily M has one with an article telling you all about it...I didn't know what is was either. Just for once I'd better thank the DM.
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