Croatia & Slovenia June 2018

Croatia June 2018

I did embed pictures into this story but they will not copy into the article, as they say a picture tells a thousand words, not for the club it doesn't.

Picture 1 Bled Island from Villa Bled

Picture 2 Split

Picture 3 Krka NP

Picture 4 Rovinj from site

Picture 5 Plitvice  NP

We decided after many years thinking about it that we would visit Croatia in 2018. Ferries were booked late 2017 and no real thoughts about a route. My wife as usual had done some research and we had bought the DK book (our usual planning guide as thoughts as to what to see), so the article in the club magazine gave us an idea as to a route.

So June 2018 arrived, car and caravan packed, route decided on, no sites booked, ACSI card in wallet, Red Pennant bought, Austrian Vignette bought on line and off we set off. Fri 1st June, arrived in Dover after a quiet trip around the M25, we were stopping a few days at a CL, Longfield farm, handy for the ferry and flat site which does get busy with vans stopping before getting a ferry. Went down to the cliffs but the mist was down and could just about see into the ferry port. The weekend was bright and sunny so Wingham Wildlife park Saturday and Dungeness Sun.                          

Mon was cloudy and misty and ferry day so will not be seeing much on the crossing to Dunkerque.  Docked and disembarked about 1315 and with a full tank of fuel (France is as expensive as UK for Diesel so no benefit to filling up in France as we once did as a must!), and headed South. Avoiding the toll roads we headed for Lille, into Belgium and overnighted at Camping Arlon (ACSI) just on the border with Luxembourg. Site was busy with Dutch who looked like us to be overnighting. Some level pitches and some not so (ours on a quite steep slope), still free internet (when it worked) and clean wash rooms. Packed up next morning and headed for Germany, through Luxembourg to fill up with fuel at about £1/litre. We stopped for 3 nights at Seefeld on Pilensee, about 30Km west of Munich. A large site next to the lake, mainly with static vans but with about 70 touring spaces. The lake is crystal clear and with water sports and swimming points and very welcoming after a long drive. Some pitches were tight to get into and we again thanked the mover! New toilet block had just opened, free wifi for 10 mins a day (more can be purchased). The site is close to the Andechs monastery and brewery which is worth a visit. There are several lakes nearby and all seem to have circular paths accessible by foot and bike. A short hop took us to Dachau camp, the infamous German camp. Lots of tourist buses and school children but informative but can get overwhelming.

Fri was moving day, avoided the ring road around Munich, it always seems busy so joined the motorway south of Munich and into Austria. Already had the vignette, though no sticker, so was expecting a query somewhere, the on line system only came in in 2018. Strangely though they only allow you to buy on line for the vignette to come into effect 18 days after you buy, something to do with internet sales and right to return! Anyway stress free though Austria paying the toll through the tunnel. Stopped at a service station to buy the Slovenia Vignette, month as cheap as 2 x7 day passes to we went for that option. Sat nav flashed up a 5km queue near the border between Austria and Slovenia so was anticipating a wait! We arrived at the back of the queue, lane 1 full of lorries, lane moving OK and we drove straight to the entrance to the Karawankentunnel, paid our fee and waited about 10mins. Not sure if there had been an issue in the tunnel and nothing seemed to be coming out while we waited. Once through the tunnel only a couple of junctions in Slovenia before coming off for Bled, our next stop. Camping Bled was to be our stop for 5 nights.

Camping Bled is situated at the other end of the lake from the town. The site is quite big and pitch sizes vary considerably but it has quite a nice restaurant, local shop and bread man every morning on site. The lake with its clear warm water is just across the road from the entrance with swimming access and boats that go to Bled Island. Free wifi across the site and numerous toilet blocks, all cleaned throughout the day. Some pitches get waterlogged and after one heavy rain shower some pitches were closed due to waterlogging. The lake is about 5km around, easy walking or cycling on the traffic free path. The lake is used for rowing so has lanes permanently marked out for the adjacent rowing club.

The town is pretty, the overlooking castle is worth a visit but it is famous for Bled island, the little island with a church on the hill. Access to the island is via traditional rowing boat operated by the locals, a pleasant way to get across the water. Lovely views of the lake and island from the Bled castle and from Villa Bled, now a hotel in the past Tito’s palace in the area. Sitting on the terrace with the sun behind you, a piece of Bled cream cake (a local speciality) and a drink in the late afternoon admiring the views, doesn’t get much better!

Other attractions in the area are the Vintgar gorge, closed when we were there due to storm damage, Lake Boshinj and Visic pass. Visic pass known as the Russian road, it was built by Russian POWs during the war, famous for its 50 hairpin bends and various memorials to the Russians, a magnet for bikers.

Moving day came around, rained overnight but was dry by the time we left and a short hop into Croatia and 3 nights at Camp Zagreb. Our first passports check as we entered the country, not part of the Schengen area, and a toll road. Camp Zagreb a circular site convenient for the city, they even provide a shuttle to the local railway station. The site, like others in Slovenia and Croatia seem to accept arrivals at any time you arrive if reception is open. Free wifi and clean toilet facilities. Found an ATM to get some local cash. A day in the city and a day in the local area was the plan.

Zagreb was a 20min train ride, about £2.25/person return. What can I say, capital city with some pretty buildings, marred by its graffiti. The weather didn’t help, drizzle that was enough to annoy, not enough to put your coat on. The guide books even mention their first skyscraper, 7 stories and an ugly concrete thing!

Time to move on again and head to the Plitvic National park. We had emailed the site we were planning to stop at and found they were still closed due to refurbishment so stopped at Kamp Korana, a large site (2500 people) and part of the national park and about 5 miles from the north entrance. It’s a couple of hours from Zagreb so arrived before lunch. As expected the site is huge, fortunately not very busy as recent heavy rain had made a lot of the grass areas to wet so most vans were on the hard standing which was the access roads. After going around 2-3 times found somewhere to pitch, sites not marked out. Facilities are few but clean, you may be a distance from them. A shop, restaurant and snack bar on site as well as free wifi at reception. A free bus to the park goes every morning and returns late afternoon if you don’t want to drive. As we had the afternoon free we drove back to Slinj and Rastoke mills, a pretty town we had come through which has a series of waterfalls and old mills, very scenic.

Sun was a day to visit the Plitvic National park, lots of parking but have to pay by the hour and then an entrance fee.  Notices boards up about walking routes but no maps handed out. Still well marked out paths and trails, all on foot, no bikes allowed. You get quite close to the numerous waterfalls and cascades, have a boat ride across the lake and to more falls and cascades. Lovely setting, a blue sky would have been better for the pictures but an enjoyable 8km walk through the trails. Thankfully a free shuttle bus brings you back from one end of the park to the other. It does get busy with numerous coach parties so get in early if you can.

Having seen the park we moved south to Omis, as far south as we would be going on this trip. Keeping off the toll roads we passed through the mountains, stayed cloudy until we left the mountains then the sun came out as we descended to Split. Followed the coast road out of Split to Camp Galeb for 5 nights. Another large site with fixed cabins. Has a private beach that is fine shingle and not sand, only one sandy beach we heard about and that’s imported sand, rest are stone. Facilities are clean and well maintained and again free wifi over the site. On site restaurant as well as large supermarket adjacent. Only downside was number of school groups lodged in the cabins.

Omis is a little town about 20Km south of Split, boat trips out to the islands and water sports.  A good centre to explore south of Split and some of the islands by organised trips if required. We went into Split itself, parked by the railway station which was near the old town (5 min walk) and reasonable price. Split old town is walkable and a lovely place to visit. The Diocletian roman palace is remarkably intact and worth a wander around. We spent a day at Krka National park, another park full of waterfalls but here you can swim in one of the big pools which lots of people were doing, although the water looked cold! Travelling further south we explored various towns and valleys, Igrane and Gradac but 2 of them. Up in the hills Zadvarje is a worth a visit just for the views over the valley. We were plagued a bit by the Bora wind, strong winds normally in Winter. Brought a few thunder storms and the wind was enough to bring branches down and rock the caravan. Unpleasant night with windows shut and hot weather.

Time to move and now going back north, following the coast road, which is very scenic but it does follow the coast so very bendy and twisty in places, not much chance of speeding on these roads. Heading towards Zardar where we are stopping for 3 nights. Stayed at Camp Peros, a lovely little site with pitches of various sizes, onsite restaurant and a huge pool. Worth emailing them first just to see if they have space, they were full all the time we were there. They do accept ACSI until July. Site is also walking distance to Zaton beach, or a short bike ride to Nin. We explored Nin an old roman town with a few ruins about, the old town was cut off in 2017 when floods took the bridges out, not yet fully repaired but you can get in easily enough. Drove over to Pag, and island connected to the mainland by bridge. It was described as desolate and it was but the old town was pleasant. Spent the next day in Zardar old town, worth parking a little way from the old town as parking comes at less than £.50/hour, 2 minutes closes takes it up to a £1/hr. Zardar is an old roman walled town with some modern features such as the sea organ, pipes in the sea wall so with the swell of the sea music is played. Lovely town. Lots were swimming off the sea wall as well.

After a pleasant stay at Zaton continued to head north to Rovinj. Continued up the 8 following the coast heading to camp Amarin. Very busy site, part of a large hotel, chalet complex and still has over 600 pitches which vary in size and how level they are. Found a spot with a bit of shade and explored the site, this one has all the amenities, water taxi into town if required and its own beach. Could get noisy near the beach but away from it quieted down. Lots of toilet blocks some a little dated but seemed to be cleaned continuously. Wifi only in spots but one is on the beach and a wonderful place to watch the sunset and the views over Rovinj are worth sitting for. Explored Rovinj which is typical town, church on hill surrounded by steep narrow streets. Worth going into town to see sunset. Ferries from here to Italy and some of the Islands. Explored further afield, the villages of Bale, Vodnjan with its wall murals and Svetvincenat all worth a visit, weather wasn’t kind initially with light showers but brightened up eventually. Porec was a pleasant town but Pula and its almost complete amphitheatre is a must if you are in the area. Park in the big car park not on the street, charges are less than half than on the street. 

Time to move again After 5 pleasant nights, time to move a little north, as the weather was still being kind headed back into Slovenia but stayed on the coast for our last 3 days before heading back towards the channel. Stopped at Koper, Camping Adria, an ACSI site but now in July so not valid. This site is large and whilst it has a beach it is not very nice and overlooks the port of Koper, it does have an Olympic size swimming pool though. Again free wifi at reception, €1.80/week charge if you want to use it over the site. Towns to explore here are Pira, Izola and Koper itself, Slovenia’s only port. Clear waters once away from the port and we liked Izola best, lovely town, swimming was in crystal waters and the town had a lovely cake shop, not many to be found in these parts of the world.

Well that was it, time to head for home. We retraced our steps through Austria and Germany, but as we had a day in hand diverted through France and stopped in Saverne for a couple of days. Visited the Plan d’Incline which is now working, wasn’t when we were last in the area. Then to Calais and home. 38 days in total, 2800 towing miles.

Will we go again, no doubt about it, Yes. What did we learn, the countries are lovely, people friendly, sites are in general well equipped. English is widely spoken and understood and fuel is cheaper than at home, as it is everywhere but France these days. Proper cakes shops don’t seem to exist in Croatia but that is a small price to pay. And finally shoes are need for swimming in the sea!

Until the next trip.