Levelling the caravan

gaz10
gaz10 Forum Participant Posts: 25

Hi all

when levelling the caravan should I drive the caravan forward or reverse on to the chock ?

Bit confused about the braking mesh of the caravan, I thought that you should reverse so as the brakes are working correctly, but I heard different.

Any help in this matter would be great

 

thanks Gary

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Comments

  • EmilysDad
    EmilysDad Forum Participant Posts: 8,973
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    edited February 2018 #2

    You can do either, though in practice, if you have a mover fitted, it might get in the way in one direction or the other.

  • Pathfinder
    Pathfinder Forum Participant Posts: 4,446
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    edited February 2018 #3

    Personally I would reverse on to leveling ramps as the hand brake will engage almost immediately, pulling the van onto the ramps the van will roll back a couple of inches before the brake engages.

  • Rob2CathDavies
    Rob2CathDavies Forum Participant Posts: 145
    edited February 2018 #4

    Hope you are not confused by the different responses.

    in our experience, if there are two people it is better to pull forward onto the ramp.  The driver keeps their foot on the foot brake while the second person checks the side-to-side spirit level, and puts a chock behind the wheel before the driver applies the handbrake, so that the caravan doesn’t slip down the levelling ramp.

    You can then unhitch and level up front to back with the jockey wheel.

    Then put the legs down.

    Hope that helps. (We don’t have a motor mover, but DO have 30 years practice including 11 years as wardens...and we also manage to line up our Alko lock at the same time...not bragging or anything!)

  • jennyc
    jennyc Forum Participant Posts: 957
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    edited February 2018 #5

    Although we’ve tried ramps, we’ve never found them as easy as 1,2 or 3 boards stacked. At just over 1” thick for each board your levelling should never be more than .5” out. A bit of care to place your wheels in high/low points on the pitch helps, as does a garden trowel for adding/ reducing gravel height on hardstandings. Understanding how much lift you are getting from a ramp, from the driving seat of a tow vehicle, is harder than estimating the thickness needed from a board stack from the position of a spirit level bubble. Or at least it is for us.

  • EmilysDad
    EmilysDad Forum Participant Posts: 8,973
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    edited February 2018 #6

    But as suggested above, movers might get in the way ...... mine did on my last caravan hence us having to reverse up the ramp ..... a chunk missing from the top of my ramp bears testament 😁

  • Boff
    Boff Forum Participant Posts: 1,742
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    edited February 2018 #7

    Current van the mover clears the ramp.  The previous van it didn’t which made the decision for us.  Currently sometimes we pull onto the ramp and sometimes we reverse.  Sometimes there is a good reason for the choice but normally it’s random.   Not sure about line up the Alko lock. In my experience you can have a level van  or a wheel lock aligned but not both.   If you decide to jack the van up to line up the lock.  Leave the van hitched as it stabilises the van. 

  • cariadon
    cariadon Forum Participant Posts: 861
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    edited February 2018 #8

    don't think there's a set way, we do which ever way the pitch runs.

     

  • CLMAN
    CLMAN Club Member Posts: 17
    edited February 2018 #9

    Different thihkness boards much easier than ramps.Also easeir to line alco up.

  • gaz10
    gaz10 Forum Participant Posts: 25
    edited February 2018 #10

    Thanks everyone, think there is no real right way, but I do like to reverse, as path finder says the hand brake engages immediately 

     

    thanks again all, Gary 

  • EasyT
    EasyT Forum Participant Posts: 16,194
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    edited February 2018 #11

    I use a number of 3'' and 1.5'' blocks each about 4'' wide and 12'' long. If more than 7.5'' required I go elsewhere.

  • hitchglitch
    hitchglitch Forum Participant Posts: 3,007
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    edited February 2018 #12

    We used cut down thick planks, maximum of two under one wheel. If you reverse onto ramps the caravan towing socket assembly compresses slightly then expands when you unhitch and can touch the car so I always found it better to move slightly forward before unhitching.

  • Darthbarnold
    Darthbarnold Forum Participant Posts: 14
    edited February 2018 #13

    I went on the Caravan Club training course, they said you should reverse on so the caravan will try to roll forward which works with the breaks.

  • EmilysDad
    EmilysDad Forum Participant Posts: 8,973
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    edited February 2018 #14

     ..... brakes  😎

  • TonyIshUK
    TonyIshUK Forum Participant Posts: 296
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    edited February 2018 #15

    Rather than reverse and have to feel when the braking system is in reverse mode,

    it was a lot easier to pull the caravan up the ramp(s) , brake the caravan and chock it.  Release the hitch, and raise the tow hitch, drive the car away and adjust the fore / aft pitch.

    of course, modern motor movers make a mockery of the old ways;-) 

    you can get graduated spirit levels, so that with a little bit of practice, you can immediately tell that you need one side X higher than the other, twist the level through 90 degrees  and you know how much fore n aft level needed.

    stabilisers down , gas on , electric on , kettle on. Job done

    Rgds

  • atpne
    atpne Forum Participant Posts: 2
    edited March 2018 #16

    I use a levelling device made by Milenco, it sits around the wheel on the side to be lifted/levelled and you ratchet it until you get the caravan level plus this means I can level the caravan on my own and it does not interfere with Al-Ko wheel lock, it is expensive but I have had mine for 6 years now and feel it was money well spent. Hope this helps.

  • gatewaya89
    gatewaya89 Forum Participant Posts: 157
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    edited March 2018 #17

    We did all that back and fourth stuff first year of caravaning, but now have a Lock n Level system SO Easy! just look at this video link!..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7GejeQPweU

    Once you use one, ramps and blocks are a thing of history!

    Trust me when I say its so easy to use and store and works every time!

    happy vanning

     

  • Metheven
    Metheven Club Member Posts: 3,987
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    edited March 2018 #18

    Forward or reverse, it depends on the pitch and how I feel on the day, it's just not worth thinking about as long as it's made safe when raised.

    All these gizmo's are fine if that's what you want, but a few blocks of wood is a tried and tested alternative and a few minutes here and there won't bother me in setting up.

    Much prefer something solid under the wheels and not an inflated bag that may puncture or deflate leaving undue weight on the steadies.

  • Unknown
    Unknown Forum Participant
    edited March 2018 #19
    The user and all related content has been Deleted User
  • EmilysDad
    EmilysDad Forum Participant Posts: 8,973
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    edited March 2018 #20

    An awning is easily removed with a Stanley knife 🙄

  • Unknown
    Unknown Forum Participant
    edited March 2018 #21
    The user and all related content has been Deleted User
  • Taxidad
    Taxidad Forum Participant Posts: 14
    edited April 2018 #22

     One of the first bits of kit we bought was a set of ramps - used then about twice - was recommend some planks to use and found them much easier although over time these will sink in to soft ground so adjusting needs to happen which you'd do in any case.

  • Merve
    Merve Forum Participant Posts: 2,333
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    edited April 2018 #23

    Lock’n’ Level is by far the best levelling system I’ve found, yes it costs more but by goodness it’s worth it. I went through this thread and was amazed to find the fist mention of the L&L was well into it. The L&L gets your van bang on every time and it’s sooo easy to use. Levelling used to be a pain in the ass but not now- it’s a breeze. 

  • Phishing
    Phishing Forum Participant Posts: 597
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    edited April 2018 #24

    Always behind for me, easier to position the van and it doesn't try to escape rolling backwards before the handbrake engages.

  • Scottie2
    Scottie2 Forum Participant Posts: 226
    edited April 2018 #25

    For years I have used a wooden wedge from “0” at its point and “3” in height at the other end...Length of the wedge is “15”....Pull forwards up the wedge and a wheel chalk to put in behind When spirit level, side to side, shows level...Hold with foot brake, insert chalk,and pull on caravan handbrake 

  • richardandros
    richardandros Club Member Posts: 2,773
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    edited April 2018 #26

    Totally agree Merve.  Best bit of kit I have bought and have used it constantly for the last three years - van sits on it on the drive at home.  Mainly got it to facilitate the fitting of both wheel locks on a TA but levelling - especially on soft ground, (we tend to use mainly CLs and CS's) is both safe and simple.

  • StarGazzy
    StarGazzy Forum Participant Posts: 32
    edited May 2018 #27

    Hello,

    I have and use

    http://www.milenco.com/products/levelling/aluminium-leveller

    I bought it off Gumtree, it was practically brand new.

    I am kinda new to caravanning and I have tried different heights in planks, ramps and so on but the Milenco leveller will save you a lot of time and effort in terms of backwards and forwards.

    Honest review... Fantastic bit of kit, easy to use too.

    StarGazzy.

     

  • rovinmad
    rovinmad Forum Participant Posts: 102
    First Comment
    edited June 2018 #28

    On a gravel pitch at a club site every van that goes on is required to be in virtually the identical place.  Is it too much to ask that the gravel be level across the axle?  

  • Cornersteady
    Cornersteady Club Member Posts: 14,618
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    edited June 2018 #29

    Yes we have one and if you want easy(ish) and accurate side to side levelling this does it perfectly.

    We don't use it as much nowsdays for short breaks but used it a lot when we would be two weeks plus on one site .

  • Cornersteady
    Cornersteady Club Member Posts: 14,618
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    edited June 2018 #30

    yes fully agree there

  • RGR2
    RGR2 Forum Participant Posts: 36
    edited July 2018 #31

    Why not use the mover if you've got one. Get level, handbrake on, fit chock, corner steadies down, disengage mover last. No opportunity for van to roll. Also gives you chance to line up wheel lock without leaping in and out of the car, especially if solo.