Penrhos and photos of the surrounding area
After my one-eventful journey from Swansea to Anglesey (see Road Improvements) I arrive at Penrhos just after mid-day. There was a good choice of spaces and I tucked myself into a corner pitch, set up and had a quick nap, just to restore my good looks. A quick journey to bustling Llangefni in order to fill the larder then set up the recliner in the sun with a good book.
The next morning it was an early slope off to Moelfre to see how this lovely village was coping with modernity. Quite a few yachts were anchored in the bay but dominating them all was the new lifeboat and very impressive it was too. Moelfre is steeped in nautical history, back in 1859 the Royal Charter, on the very last leg of its long journey from Australia, came to grief with the loss of many lives and a great many bars of gold. In more recent history the coxwain, Dic Evans (who was also our butcher) won the George Medal – not once but twice. He was the first coxwain ever to have done so, he is forever commemorated in bronze at his wheel gazing out to sea. Moelfre is special to me because it is my birthplace, but it also has another significance. In life there are some places which are memorable because it was there that you experienced something for the first time, your first bikeride, first swim, maybe your very first sneaked kiss. For me I had two memorable experiences on the same day, in fact within an hour. It was the first time I ever watched a television and also the first time I saw a lifeboat being launched, in fact the maroons rudely interrupted my viewing.
But that is a long story for another day.
After loading myself with a good breakfast and with a fresh batch of cheese and tomato sandwiches in tow I am off to explore Parys mountain. At one time this crater was the largest copper producer in the world and at a time before that it was a mountain standing proud, Anglesey misses that – it has a paucity of mountains and it really was not in a position to gladly lose one. The area puts you in mind of a moonscape, it is lavishly peppered with heaps of rusty-orange coloured piles of spoil in the centre of which is a huge hole, like the cavity in a rotten tooth. There are tracks all around and you can wander at will, you can even walk down into the hole itself and I would say that if you are fit enough – do just that but don’t venture into the underground workings. You will enter another world, strange to think that you are standing deep in the middle of a mountain but with the sky as your roof.
To export copper you have to have a port and you would imagine it would be a large one. The harbour at Amlwch was that port so I went down to see, I had been there before of course but never immediately after going to Parys Mountain. This time my mind marvelled at the fact that so much copper ore was sent on its worldwide journey from this narrow creek. Cross to the other side, walk to the far end, look back and you can tell where the original entrance was. Amazing that this tiny place was the site of bustling activity and was known throughout the world. Remember to go to the Sail Loft Visitor Centre to find out more of the history before you leave.
On the following day, a day that started rather dull and looked like it was never going to cheer up, I went to Holyhead for a good walk. There seemed no need for sun protection so I had not bothered, it turned out to be a lovely sunny day, if only all those people I saw enjoying the weather knew that it was thanks to me!
My walk started from the nature reserve just beyond the ferry port and marina, an ample car park with the most reasonable of charges – a refreshing £1 for a 4 hour stay! The walk is well marked and follows the edge of the coast, you will marvel at someone’s skill in laying the stone surface and the steps. Look back every now and then at the growing view of the ferry port, keep staring at it until you get your breath back and the energy returns to your legs – that’s what views are for! If you’re lucky you will get a close look of one of the ferries heading for, or returning from, Ireland. Blink and you may miss the SeaCat on its outward journey. Note and question the purpose of the stone hut, is it a shelter for and old saint or just a folly? Neither actually – it is a magazine hut used to store explosives for the nearby quarry! After clearing North Stack you begin to see glimpses of South Stack and its lighthouse – that is where you are heading.
On arriving at South Stack you will be with mankind once again but with a lovely glow and feeling of smugness, you got there on foot! Here you can relax at the RSPB shop and cafe, treat yourself to an ice cream – why not, I did! Toilets are available here! (but only during opening times). Before the return journey Ellin’s Tower is well worth a visit, it is part of the RSPB and provides a good view of South Stack and its large bird colony, telescopes are available for your use. Walk up the road then and look down at the splendour of South Stack, see how small the people are! You could go down there but buy your ticket at the RSPB shop first. I chose not to, after sitting down with an ice cream I contemplated my return journey and decided that it was manageable but only if I deferred my lighthouse visit to another day.
The walk was a circular one and the return was easier on the legs. Retrace your steps and shortly you will pick up a marker post that takes you off to the right, follow this but look out for a water treatment works to the right in the middle distance, you will shortly see a fork in the path with no marker, go left here and up the short hill. Now you will have the ferry port in view and you are back with the marker posts. Soon you will see the tall brickworks chimney which is where you started your journey. Refresh yourself with a cold drink and a flapjack from the shop by the information centre – you’ve done well!
Anglesey has two Caravan Club sites, Penrhos, which has a toilet block and related facilities and Cae Mawr which has not. Cae Mawr is therefore quieter during the busy season. Both are excellent sites and Anglesey has a great deal to offer. Apart from good sandy beaches, walkers will enjoy the coastal path, history buffs will be fascinated by the old Din Lligwy Hut Circle, an ancient fortified homestead, last occupied 16 centuries ago at Lligwy, several cromlechs, large burial chambers and of course Beaumaris castle. Romantics will enjoy the tranquility of Llanddwyn island, the home of Saint Dwynwen, patron saint of lovers. Welsh people have two chances at finding a mate - Saint Dwynwen’s day on the 25th January and, if that doesn’t work St Valentine’s day on the 14th February. No wonder we are so contented!
