Safefill Connection (Quick Question)
I feel a bit stupid asking this but....here goes. We are really happy with our safe fill in terms of cost and convenience. The only issue is when we put it in the caravan, we have to tighten it with a spanner really really tight otherwise it leaks. I wondered
if this is normal?
We have nothing to compare it to as our caravan dealer connected our only calor bottle before we changed to Safefill. I know it will need to be tight but we have to use all of our strength to get it tight enough. When I loosened it today I struggled to
get it untightened initially but once I made the first turn, it comes off by hand. Is this normal we are two females I might add.
Comments
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Tracey - I have had more difficulty with Calor than Safefill - just before I swapped I had assistance from a warden with what I call plumbers tape - it has a new name these days but it was required! When I bought the Safefill I got a stainless steel hose
with a "tap" so no spanner (which is just as well as there is very little space in my locker!). All the same size etc but so much easier. There is always a slight hiss when you first connect up but only slight. I would certainly consider investing in a
Stainless Connector hose with spindle it has simplified things so much. The other end is the same as normal so spanner needed for first connection.0 -
Yes, I would agree with Pippah Tracey. I have had no problems with any of my SF cylinders. The SS tails last much longer and the ones with the hand wheel on does away with the need for a spanner. The hand wheel can be tightened easily to avoid leakage and undone just as easily. Don't hang on the spanner as you could damage the product. You certainly should not have to use all you strength to achieve a leak free connection. You could always ring Safefill for advice- they are very helpful and hate any problems with their products.
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I am not sure what connector I have so when I take my gas bottle back to the caravan on Sat (I've just filled it up for £7
) I shall upload a photo and maybe someone can tell me if I need to change something. If i have the same connections as others I may
give safefill a ring before I try the scotchbrite method. thanks for your responses.0 -
I have found screwing the pigtail onto the Safefill feels a little different than to a Calor. With Calor you feel the thread start to tighten up with the last turn or two, whereas with the Safefill it seems not to tighten until it is fully locked on. However the valve on the Safefill when pressed against the pigtail gives a slight hiss and becomes totally sealed. I put this down to a safety feature when refilling the cylinder.
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I have the same size 10kg Safefill which is brilliant. I am still using the rubber hose pigtailed supplied by Bailey. I have been considering getting the Gaslow stainless pigtail but my dealer only had the shortest length (45CM) in stock. I would prefer the next size up so that the tubing dips in a curve below the valve on the cylinder. The Safefill is taller than the usual Calor so the shorter pigtail runs level from the regulator on my set up. Allthough less important when using stainless steel tubing it is generally considered best to have a droop in the tubing to prevent oiling which can block the gas supply. Having said that I have not yet experienced any problems in over 18 months with my current set up. I would buy the wheel model rather than the spanner as in my outfit there is not a lot of room to use a spanner due to the height of the Safefill.
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Having just purchased the 10 ltr safefill , I have not used it yet , been looking at the stainless steel pigtails Amazon have at 20 quid , they have the finger wheel and the spanner head types , advice please
Write your comments here...I love my finger wheel and it's almost essential as I have the big bottle and very little space to wield a spanner! N downside that I have seen. I now have finger wheel on other outdoor stuff too.
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When we bought our Safefill the dealer recommended we fitted a finger wheel pipe.
Our old caravan already had one fitted at the last service but I now need to fit one to our "new to us" caravan when I fetch it back tomorrow.
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Tracey, to get a good seal you need PTFE tape. Tirrill - yes, you were right to go for the next size up. The valve on the cylinder should always be below the regulator to prevent oils and crap from entering the regulator and ruining it. If that's not possible
because of a taller cylinder, then a U bend in the tail lower than the regulator will do just as well.0 -
Merve PTFE tape should not be used to gain a seal, the cylinder valve and regulator are designed to connect and seal without such tape. Tape should only be used as an emergency and the true course of why the seal is leaking investigated, either bull nose
of pigtail / regulator damaged, cylinder valve been over tighten and misshaped or threads sprung.0 -
Merve PTFE tape should not be used to gain a seal, the cylinder valve and regulator are designed to connect and seal without such tape. Tape should only be used as an emergency and the true course of why the seal is leaking investigated, either bull nose
of pigtail / regulator damaged, cylinder valve been over tighten and misshaped or threads sprung.Plus 1
I agree chaps but it was Pippah who described it as plumbers tape- I was simply giving it it's correct name. No, of course it's better to find out why the thing is leaking. As you correctly point out, the pigtail and cylinders are designed to be screwed
together without leaks. However, if Tracey has a leak and she can't sort it immediately, the PTFE tapes can be of great assistance. Sorry if I lead anyone to think it was standard practice- it's not!!0 -
About 4 years ago there was a batch of pigtails at my dealership that had split brass connectors! I think I went through 5 of them myself! PTFE - of course - showing my age I guess calling it plumbers tape
That batch of bad ones was what made me go for the Stainless Steel one. Gas leaks that year could easily have cost me my life and it was all down to shoddy workmanship 
(from an NCC approved workshop at that). 0 -
Firstly, don't overtighten the connectors.
Secondy, try rubbing some water and hairy lip squid around the connectors and see if there is any bubbling.
Don't forget it could be something inside the caravan that is leaking (if I am reading your post correctly)
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Agree with Fysherman. It is possible to overtigthen them. It may be worth removing them and feeling with your finger to make sure than no grit or dirt has contaminated the surfaces. With a significant leak you should be able to smell it.
It couldn't be something as daft as you think your HW is on electric but actually it's set to gas?
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Thanks for your comnents. I couldn't figure out how to post picyures but when I went to fill up at a lovely safefill retailer north of Nottingham I was able to buy a pigtail with handle which someone mentioned earlier. A kind guy on my CL then changed it
for me and it seems to have some the trick.0 -
I spoke the the guy at safefill who said only use the handwheel pigtail with the rubber seal
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Interesting dakota - I went to the local Calor store looking for a wheel fitting - and was told they weren't made - HA HA serve me right for going near Calor I suppose but it was handy to where I was at the time. I have a stainless steel one for the safefill
and now two more wheels for the BBQ at home and camping stove.0 -
I think the hand wheel tails are all made with rubber seals. I tried to use mine with a 3kg Calor cylinder that I had had for years- just to use it up and get rid of it but found the wheel fouled on the top of the cylinder itself. I gave it to my daughter
who camps together with my old (but in date) rubber tail.. Not a calor cylinder in the place now and there never will be if I have anything to do with it. Thanks to Neil and John at Safefill for bringing freedom of choice to EHU and non EHU caravanners alike
who need LPG - and for saving me a small fortune on refill cylinders.0
