Motor movers
We've just bought a new Swift Basecamp 2 caravan to replace our old Autosleeper Duetto campervan and, partly because I'm not as strong as I was, we opted to have a motor mover fitted. The electrical isolation switch is inside the van which makes it awkward to reach if the van's loaded ready to go with bikes, model aeroplanes etc stowed.
I accept the desirability of electrical isolation when the van is parked either at home or on site but is it necessary when towing? Obviously the friction drives are mechanically disconnected so, even if the mover motors are accidentally triggered (unlikely), they're not going to do much (nor consume much energy off load, for that matter).
It would simply be easier to leave them connected whilst towing as they may be needed on arrival anyway. I can't see any problems with this but if there are, what are they?
Geoff
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I used to leave the mover on my previous caravan permanently on with no ill effects. I would do the same on my current caravan as the isolator is under a front locker however the Pwrtouch fitted switches itself off after a few minutes.
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The basecamps are small but there should be another place? On the ones I've seen caravans have the switch where the EHU plugs in next to the battery compartment.
I do recall a similar question before and the person had the switch put into a specially cut out compartment, much like a outside mains/BBQ socket?
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Our current caravan has the isolator switch in the external battery/EHU locker and I do try to remember to isolate the mover when not actually using it.
However our previous van, which we owned for 14 yrs, did not have an isolator switch for the mover and it was never a problem.
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I would see about getting the switch moved. They are usually installed in the battery locker or similar as was the case with the 4 vans I had with movers.
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From memory, I think there is a specific instruction in the Powrtouch manual to the effect that the MM shouldn't be operated whilst connected to EHU because it will cause damage to the control box(es).
The isolator in our van is in the battery box where the EHU lead plugs in and it's in such a position that it's physically impossible to plug in the cable whilst the isolator key is in place - and the dealer fitted it that way, deliberately.
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Thanks for the quick responses. Apart from towing it home, we haven't used our BC2 yet and the isolation switch/mover etc were fitted by the dealer before we bought it (it's new - gulp!) and, though I'm electrically competent I don't fancy cutting holes and rewiring it yet.
The electronic speed controller (ESC) even when not driving the motors and supposedly switch off will draw some current from the leisure battery - not much but over an extended period could over discharge it, so it's certainly a good idea to isolate it when not being towed. I'll leave it on whilst towing and isolate it once we're settled.
Thanks again.
Geoff
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Yes I remember now that is how it was explained to us, and it can indeed cause damage. I recall one ex-poster saying it did when he did that and needed some new electronics in the box.
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RandR, don't you have a Coachman?
If so the switch in ours is fitted in the same place as yours but came as factory fitted, nothing to do with dealers. I like the idea of not being able to use both EHU and motor mover at the same time.
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I don't think installing electrical switches in the gas locker would be a good idea
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My thoughts, too.
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WN - No it's a Knaus Starclass and the motor mover / isolator was fitted by the dealer before we took delivery.
Our last van - a Bailey - the dealer fitted the isolator just inside the rear locker under the fixed bed - which was convenient for access but did allow the EHU to be inadvertently plugged in at the same time. I did ask the Knaus dealer to do the same thing (not thinking about the EHU issue) and they said they always fitted it underneath the EHU socket in the battery box to prevent both being 'live' at the same time. I remember thinking "Ooh - what a good idea - why didn't I think of that!!
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It is (arguably illegal depending on what legislation you follow) and very dangerous to have any electrical connections or even cables in the gas locker. If the isolator switch is located behind the battery enclosure door, it will be in the small sealed compartment where the mains hook up is located. It is good practice to locate the isolator switch so that the mains cable cannot be fitted whilst the Key for the isolator switch is in place, thereby preventing accidentally having the mains connected and running the motor mover (which would probably damage the circuit board). Modifying the Basecamp mentioned by GeoffSS to this layout should be a simple matter.
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HI, looking forward to picking up our new Bailey Unicorn Cadiz in in the summer (fingers crossed!). Dealer has offered to fit a Powrtouch Evloution at a cost for supply and fit of £1350. This seemed a bit steep to me but is that a reasonable price does anybody know?
Thanks in anticipation.
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Check online as there are plenty of prices shown.
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On the Powertouch website the Evolution manual is £899 and £1059 for the auto version, plus £20 delivery.
Caravan Movers on line are quoting £1150 for the auto fitted at your home. https://www.caravanmoversonline.co.uk/powrtouch/evolution.html
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It sounds like a lot to me. When I bought my last Bailey I made inclusion of a new Powertouch mover and suitable battery a codition of purchase. I expect times have changed now though, it seems to be a sellers market since the pandemic struck.
On the original topic of position of the isolator switch, the same Bailey had a factory fitted "provision for motor mover" with the isolation switch in a bed locker accessible through an outside hatch. It is convenient to use but no interlocking with EHU cable so easy to try to use both together. The reason for Bailey's decision was probably because the battery is fitted under the floor rather than in an externally accessible box.
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When the control box switches itself off, part of it is obviously still active and waiting for a signal from the handset to switch on again. As well as a steady drain on the battery, the power supply in the controller and the radio circuitry involved have a finite lifespan. Often called MTBF - minimum time before failure.
Seems silly to be using that up when one does not need to. And that is without the danger that something gets inadvertently left on top of the controller and causes it to overheat, possibly to the point of something going on fire.
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I couldn't manage without a motor mover these days, to be honest. Our caravan is just a little heavy for us to move manually, and I feel I need the mover for 'fine tuning' when getting the 'van into the correqct position. Fortunately, our switch is just inside the side locker, so is easy to access. Should I change the caravan, I'll make a mental note to make sure the isolation switch is sited conveniently. Personally, I'd look into getting the switch re-located to a convenient spot if possible.
David
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Could not the issue be solved very simply by using one or a parallel pair of 100Amp relays in the "right" place, operated by a minor power feed from a conveniently located switch?
The "right" place being a location to minimise the high current cable run.
Seems quite wrong to me to go routing the high current cabling way longer than is really needed, just to locate the switch function in a convenient place.
After all, our car's starter high current cabling is not wired through to the dash or column, just a signal line.
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