Nose weight question for newbie

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Comments

  • Lutz
    Lutz Forum Participant Posts: 1,564 ✭✭✭✭
    edited August 2018 #32

    Actually there is little point in publishing ex-works noseweight because it is unlikely that the ex-works figure will stay like that for very long, even if the caravan is unladen. Often things like motor movers or other accessories are fitted by the dealer before the caravan is handed over to the customer or the owner stores a few standard items permanently in the caravan, even though it is basically in an unladen condition, and all that will affect the noseweight.

    However, it is a requirement that the manufacturer must specify the maximum allowable noseweight on the weight plate.

  • LazyLizard
    LazyLizard Forum Participant Posts: 8
    edited August 2018 #33

    comeyras, I think you are misreading the thread.....my issue is I have almost nothing in the van (apart from 6kg propane and a hot water tank I did not know I had!) and just a very few other bits and bobs and still read 115kg nose weight. I was only going to put the awning in and test the optimum position it needed to be to give a <100kg nose weight.  

  • LazyLizard
    LazyLizard Forum Participant Posts: 8
    edited August 2018 #34

    Thanks Lutz, this makes sense. Cheers, Andrew

  • KjellNN
    KjellNN Club Member Posts: 8,667 ✭✭✭
    2,500 Likes 1000 Comments Name Dropper
    edited August 2018 #35

    Where was all your stuff like bedding, towels, crockery, clothes and food?

    When on a trip, we pack the van with what we will use in the van, most other stuff like the awning, table and chairs, Aquaroll, security devices etc etc, travels in the car.  Wastemaster goes in front locker.

    When you have worked out how much payload you still have available for these "indoor" items, you then  need to weigh them as you pack to  check you are not overloaded, and pack them so as to balance the van to get the noseweight you need.

    It would be a good idea to take the van to be weighed before you start loading it, but with the battery, gas, step and EHU cable in it, plus some fluids in the toilet.   That way you can calculate how much stuff you can then add to the van.  It may well be a lot less than you think!

    Once you think you have it right, get the van weighed again to check.

  • commeyras
    commeyras Forum Participant Posts: 1,853
    1000 Comments
    edited August 2018 #36

    Nope, not misreading thread. The early posts covered most of the relevant suggestions. You should now have enough information to solve your nose weight dilemma.  I am no expert on the laws of physics but do realise that to reduce nose weight by 15kgs your awning would have to quite a distance from the axle!  Good luck you will get there.

  • redface
    redface Forum Participant Posts: 1,701
    1000 Comments
    edited August 2018 #37

    Spare wheel can make a difference, I have found.

    Is it forward or behind the axle?

    Is it there at all?

    Do you leave it insitu,  put it in the car or carry it in the rear corner loo?

     All thing to all people, for what ever reason, but nonetheless something to check.

     

     

  • jennyc
    jennyc Forum Participant Posts: 957
    500 Comments
    edited August 2018 #38

    Measuring nose weight when your van isn’t level makes just a small difference to noseweight (5Kg per 100mm from horizontal). I get the impression that you have unloaded the van for towing. However the manufacturer expects you to tow with the van loaded. Hence the nose weight will alter, depending on what and where you place the ‘cargo’. Fixed double bed vans have a huge space underneath, typically behind the axle. I would try stowing stuff in your van in convenient/ natural locations, including towards the rear, then check your nose weight again. Milenco gauges are arguably the best available, so I wouldn’t be too quick to assume that it’s misreading.