Help my Bailey is damp
Hoping for some advice, we are having real problems with our 2005 bailey ranger 510/4. the big window at the front cracked the other a day. Apparently this is a known fault with this van (shame i didn't know!!). I've called/email loads of breakers yards and there isn't a sniff of a used one anywhere. The cheapest replacement i can find is over £500. So have decided to try and repair it any advice on suitable products would be appreciated.
Off the back of the window we had a damp report carried out and it seems to make depressing reading. I've attached a photo. I'm hoping that someone will be able to explain just how bad it is as the guy who did it wasn't very forth coming and quoted around £1500 not including window and assuming there isn't anything too bad. So I suspect the price could well rocket . Is the repair worth doing against the value of the van? How difficult would be to have a go myself, (father in law is a chippy so would be on hand for help advice). holidays are booked and I don't even know if the van would be safe on the road.
Comments
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Is it a caravan or a submarine? Without a reference as to what any given reading means it is hard to say anything at all.
I suggest you buy a damp meter (B&Q?) and compare readings you get on it on the caravan with other readings at home so that you can compare.
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Looks to me as if the front side window seal has gone, 20 quid for new seal, toilet cassette door needs removal and re-seal ( also check if seal on toilet is good as it may be a leaky loo)
It’s not as bad as you first think, some of us have had readings as high as yours on a 2 year old van, let alone 13 years
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Can you see any tiny rubber bungs near the bottom of the window? Take them out and let the water drain away.
Regarding the damp readings anything up to 15percent is normal. The ringed numbers are the areas that need attention. But you can still use it for your holidays
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Cheers some really good advice. Just noticed the front step across the roof is coming away. Looks like a screw has rusted through. (One thing breaks and everything else seems to be breaking in sympathy!) Been looking at sealants, just to do a quick repair till after hols. Is sikaflex 512 the stuff to be using?
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If front roof join has lifted that could be your damp problem on the front end.
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Found the rubber bungs. but not at the bottom of the window, which would be sensible. they are at the top, Honestly who designs caravans? Whilst attempting to drain the window, it came off in my hand. result I spent most of yesterday taping bin bags together and wobbling around on ladders trying to seal up the hole.
Its chucked it down here today and so far the bin bags are doing a better job than the window.
Has anybody used clear gorilla tape? I have found a place for a replacement window (still stupidly expensive, but not as stupid as other places) but there is a 3 week wait. We go on holiday next week so was think of having some emergency bodge tape to hand.
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I have 510/4 and noticed front cassette blind lose small patch gone lucky directly behind the cassette. Found two screws externally that hold the trim above the window we’re not mastic sealed . So when it rained a very slight drip the only way I could detect was wrapped tissue paper round the screw when It rained it very slowly showed water tracking in.
Resealed and repaired the timber but also used an adhesive expanding foam
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Hi - this is an interesting post so I thought I'd jump in with my problem :-)
Last November I had all my windows and main roof light stolen and had plastic taped over them all. Seemed pretty watertight, couldn't see any water inside (once I'd finally got the roof to stop leaking),but not perfect.
Windows have now been replaced (supply issue) under insurance and I asked for some damp readings. Floor and foot lockers are 20-25% but the service engineer reckons its internal moisture rather than anything penetrating.
I've now got the heating on and a dehumidifier but I am hearing conflicting opinions on whether the dehumidifier will do any good due to the airflow vents in the caravan sucking in moist outside air - thoughts??
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Yup, you're trying to dehumidify the big wide world.
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My German built MH is pretty well sealed with all the roof lights, windows and doors shut; so much so that the manufacturer actually removes the seal from the roof light above the bed to ensure there is adequate fresh air if you choose to sleep with everything closed up.
Controversially I leave a small electric powered dehumidifier running and all the roof lights, windows and doors shut whilst the van is not in use. The dehumidifier does not work well when it is very cold and I usually switch it off when it is to stop it icing up, but with any temperature rise it does help capture any moisture in the air.
This MH in has never suffered from damp and the interior stays dry so much so that we leave it ready to go at all times.
I think ventilation is good but if the outside humidity is up then it will affect the interior. Just my opinion for what it's worth; other may differ.
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Not true.
Have a look at the link and read carefully. You will find that Dometic come with and without ventilation.
MOTORHOME & CARAVAN ROOFLIGHTS
John, you really should be more careful with your inaccurate sweeping statements.
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No roof lights manufactured by Dometic Heki Myriad and fitted to any british or continentals caravan and motorhomes are airtight even when closed . They are designed to passively ventilate the van at several cubic metres of air passing through every hour.
Your dehumidifier is very inefficient as a direct result of the above as dozens of cubic metres of fresh moisture laden air is sucked into your moho continuously.
I'm not sure there is anything controversial about using one , just questionable whether one is needed at all. Simple passive ventilation is all that is required to prevent damp forming in most vehicles.
Tj
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