Alde fluid renewal
How much are folks paying to have their Alde fluid renewed?
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Success! My local dealer (Campbells) have fluid replacement on special offer at the moment.
£99 - full price, labour and fluids!
Booked in for a few days time.
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Probably stating the obvious, but just check beforehand they are going to be using a G13 specification five year life product, and not making an offer that sees you back paying again in December 2019.
The cost of labour is the same, or it might be dearer if using a non G13 product as not all of them are cross mixable so a flush is needed, though G13 is a few pounds more expensive. Very worth using G13 [or G12++] for the 250% longer life and side stepping any cross mixing risks.
Yes, that is good value if as it seems.
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£150 at Flintshire Caravans. Just had ours done.
Nora
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has anybody ever had a frozen system with burst pipes because they have never changed the fluid. just wondering as it must be similar to the stuff put in your home central heating or the cars anti-freeze and I have never ever changed the fluid in car or home. all use copper/stainless steel/plastic/aluminium pipe work. is it just another money maker for the industry?. look forward to your replies on this one. thanks in advance.
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I've never had an Alde system but I have also wondered what it is that makes a regular change necessary.
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From what I understand (I am no expert) the fluid itself breaks down. It has a fixed life expectancy and will then cause contamination and corrosion of the components in the system. I don’t think that you can compare it with domestic water systems and vehicle systems do need changing periodically.
I have gleaned this from Swiftalk!
Ken
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That info is correct, the antifreeze properties are ageless and the recommendation for changing does not relate to freezing in any way but to the suppression of corrosion. And that is quite a challenge!
The different metals in contact with the water form "batteries" and if any different metals are connected, in an electrical sense, current flows eating away the more prone metal. This connection can happen on a macro scale between components but also on a micro scale between metal grains comprising the very structure of the alloys of some metals.
The "antifreeze" solution, or what we call the inhibited water degrades "fighting" these batteries near irresistible need to dissolve bits of the metals. It is hugely complex deciding the life the various products can offer, it depends on the mix of metals, the nature of the grain structures in the alloys and the electrical interconnection resistances. Time itself and exposure to "air" all play a part.
At about £2000 a boiler I just flow the maker's advice re life of the various products in their system, hoping there is a good enough margin in their judgement.
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At about £2000 a boiler I just flow the maker's advice re life of the various products in their system, hoping there is a good enough margin in their judgement.
2 grad for a boiler, WOW, cost me £1600 to have a complete new Worchester boiler fitted in the house with inhibiter. filter and 10year guarantee.
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Since the vast majority of caravan and Motorhome owners I am sure are totally unaware of this requirement I wonder how many secondhand vans out there are well outside of the recommended maintenance period. I don’t recall our Caravan workshop ever mentioning the need for replacement fluid and I haven’t a clue whether I had the 1 year or 5 year fluid in the van that we kept for 4 years. I bet it has never occurred to the new owners to check.
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I've just found this post following a question I put on another post. Our local dealer is charging £180 for a 5 yr recharge, so the price seems reasonable. Guess I should get it done sooner rather than later, as our van is into it's 7th year and hasn't had it changed yet!!
I wonder how many others are in a similar position, not realising that it must be done.0 -
How did you go about it Kjell?
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Drained it out by opening the outlet and collecting the fluid in a bucket, adding plain water to force more of it out, circulating the fluid to dilute it each time.
After several cycles you end up with just plain water in there.
Then drain out some water and add that amount of neat antifreeze, do this several times till you have added the correct quantity of antifreeze.
Your caravan manufacturer will tell you how much your system holds, you need to add 40% of that quantity of antifreeze at least.
I used a compatible with either blue or pink concentrate, you must use concentrate.
Then run for a bit and vent as required. I managed to do it without getting any trapped air the first time, the second time was a bit trickier, but towing the van seems to shoogle all the air out. Take some spare fluid already diluted to the correct strength with you for topping up if necessary.
Antifreeze is easily obtainable on line at a good price.
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When I was at Alde about 4 years ago I spoke with the chap doing mine. He said that they originally used to flush with deionised water. He flushed mine with a pre diluted mix of deionised and antifreeeze because he said that with the costs of fluid and of staff time that was no dearer and was quicker.
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I had to flush mine the first time as back then in the pre G12++ then G13 days, the older 5 year products had mixing issues so a clean out of what was there was needed to be safe.
The big plus that comes with using these modern products, now a bit of cross-contamination brings very few issues and still offer 5 years life.
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Did you take your van to Wellingorough to have the exchange done, Boff?
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Thanks, Kjell. Which grade of antifreeze did you you use and what sort of quantity was required. Did you have to get one of the Alde service pumps?
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You need a G12++ or G13 antifreeze. Amount depends on the volume in your system , ours is a big van so holds about 13 litres, I added 6 litres of concentrate, then topped up after venting with a preprepared 40% antifreeze solution.
I did not use a special pump, just let the fluid drain out by gravity, adding plain water to get as much out as possible, running the heating pump to mix in the water.
Eventually all you get out is plain water, then you can start to refill, draining out water, keeping track of the amount till you have out as much water as you are adding antifreeze.
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The dealer has confirmed that the replacement fluid is the 5 year version and they do a heating system soak test after the change to ensure the air is out and all is running OK.
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Which CL was that ET, as we may go along that route.
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