Chausson Flash 6
We have a Chausson Flash 6 2010, we believe that when we have the heating on Electric it uses some Gas as well are we right ? the manual is confusing so if anyone on here has a Chausson flash 6 or had one i would like your input please thanks
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We had the same model and year and from what I remember it ran either on Gas or Electric but not both....the dial on ours was near the floor at the end of the bed so wasn't the ideal place to see what you were doing. I can ask hubby as he had the better eyesight to get down there to set what we wanted if you needed more clarification, I think one dial set source and the other dial was the temperature.
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Just checked and you can also use both if you are not plugged into electric the gas is for heating and the electric for the controls .....he searched the internet for the best user friendly manual it was better than the user manual we had.
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a review ive just read says it has a Truma Combi 4E which means it can use gas or electric or both...
the control panel and the heating fan will use 12v, so, if off grid and running of gas, you dont need a hook up.
Electric heating requires a mains input and the power can be set to 900w or 1800w. this setting uses no gas.
when running off gas it will use upto 4kw so fairly substantial. this setting only uses 12v to power the fan.
When running in 'mixed mode' (gas/electric) you can select either the 900w or 1800w electric setting and the gas will supplement it up to a maximum of 2kw....meaning you will get either 2900w or 3800w.
if running on a low power electric site, 900w on its own wont give much heat (especially in winter) but changing to mixed mode will add 2kw and still not affect the electric breaker.
so, quite a flexible system, once you understand a little bit about its workings.
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As BB says you can use electric, gas or both, we have a combi 6 (whatever letter) and it was the most confusing part of reading the manual and learning how to use it. It has two dials. What is confusing it has a 'lightning' staggered line for electric and a flame symbol on the control dial. However the flame symbol on the second dial does not indicate gas as you might think but space heating (on electric or gas). One dial sets the energy source electric, gas or both, the other sets the temparture or the water and/or space heating. Newer vans have a digital display
btw the way, maybe in caravans with their better insulation than MH (?) we have found that 900W is good for keeping a nice warm caravan even in winter. You may need 1800W at first but then the 900W does the job.
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so first dial selected at upper is electric 1800W, second top is 900W electric, then gas, then gas + electric 900W, then gas + electric 1800W.
Second dial, top is water heating only at 60C, then 40C, off, space heating and water (water not regulated and is heated as a 'by product' of space heating), then space heating and water at 60C.
the space heating temperature is regulated thermostatically by the inner dial.
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the E suffix denotes having electric option, combis were originally built with gas only, electric heating bars were a later addition and tend to be ordered for the UK market, most vans destined for European customers (i believe holland might be an exception) are usually fitted with gas only units....cheap gas (even in cylinders) widely available...often for home heating.
my suggestion of the 900w heating perhaps not being enough in winter, was that this will obviously be slower to warm up (in any van) than in mixed mode, which could then ramp back down to electric only.
Interesting comment re insulation....care to expand on your views?
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You'll notice I put a question mark after it. Well I assumed that you were posting from a motor home viewpoint that you have personally found that 900W wasn't enough to keep warm in winter in your MH, quote:
if running on a low power electric site, 900w on its own wont give much heat (especially in winter)
nothing about heating up times there,only running on low power and not much heat
I acknowledge you have now amended that omission to make things clearer
While I (we in my post) found that 900W was more than enough to have kept us toasty warm. I thought your remark (not knowing you meant after heating up of course) might be due to the lower insulation in MH. I remember, but I can't remember if it was you or some other motor homer, who said that they had to put those thermal silver shields on their windscreens to keep the heat in otherwise they lose a lot of heat, ie lower insulation
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i said 900w wont give out much heat.....about 900w, in fact
...a long way short of your heater's full capacity.
...and, as you have the older control system, you wont be able to control the fan speed as you can in more modern vans. this allows selection of a faster fan speed irrespective of the amount of heat. normally, the fan speed is heater controlled and proportional to the heat produced.
....900w is the lowest heat setting and will be 'supported' by the lowest fan speed....so, not much heat, being spread aound quite slowly.
ergo, 900w will heat a cold van fairly slowly....and the bigger the van, the slower the temperature will rise.
you yourself posted that you (one) might need 1800w at first, which would be sensible on a winters day, 900w will be a slow way of heating ones van but should maintain temperature once its got there
i suggested even using mixed mode of gas/electric to speed this process up further, though i realise some have an aversion to using gas.
FYI, i dont use/have any external insulating blinds, we have internal built in sliding insulated screens around the cab. the front screen blind is also useful for privacy as it can be raised/lowered at the top or bottom.
AFAIK, single glazing in windscreens isnt available (refraction issues, possibly) which is why many use an external cover in winter, although double glazing is now popular for other A-class cab side windows.
regarding 'better insulation'....on our previous vans, with the Ducato cab i would say that there were cold spots (after all, these started life as commercial vehicles, with doors, vents, etc) however, we still didnt feel the need for external blinds, mainly as i felt they were a bind to fit/remove/store (especially in the wet). on our last two vans, its just not been necessary.
however, with regard to (real) winter suitability of leisure vehicles just take a look at what vehicles are parked up on alpine skiing sites/aires...they will be (almost exclusively) motorhomes.
not only that, they will be, most likely, german and french A class vans with purpose built, double floors, heated floors, services (water tanks/pipes/power cables, batteries etc) between the insulated floors, large bore waste pipes with internal stopcocks. many of these vans will be 15-20 yr old Hymers, or similar, whose designers got 'insulation/water tightness' sorted properly all those years ago.
so, perhaps some caravans might be a little less draughty than some 'chassis cab' built motorhomes, however, a 'chassis cowl' built A class (no seperate cab) is a different beast altogether.
add in the 'proper winterisation' features listed above (heated double floor storage containing the vans services etc) and you have a purpose built 'cold weather' vehicle, almost certainly 'better insulated' than a caravan with a single floor and exposed pipework.
so, are caravans 'better insulated than motorhomes'....?
no single answer.....
is a caravan 'better' than chassis cab MH with a single floor? ....possibly.
is a caravan 'better' than a chassis cab MH with a double floor? ....possibly not.
is a caravan 'better' than a chassis cowl A class MH with a double floor? .....definitely not
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