Battery power isolation switch
Just bought new Emove motor mover. It comes with a battery isolation switch, never had one on my previous mover. My query is do I need to fit it ? It would mean drilling holes which is fine if I had a drill the size needed. I have fitted everything and only to connect the control box now.
Comments
-
If its the same as my powrtouch then yes. Does it have a key like thing that you have to put into it and turn to make the mover work? We have to have that in and turned on if I want power to mover. Mine is in the battery box so that it's easy to get to and switch it on without going into the van. Also it blocks the EHU cable inlet so you can't have the mover on as well as the EHU hooked up. This will/could ruin the motor mover if you have 240V fully connected.
What does your fitting instructions say
0 -
Yes and it should be fitted so that you have to disconnect the 240v supply lead to switch it on.
a safety factor to stop the mover being used if 240v connected.
0 -
Thank you for the replies. Now understand why the switch is required so now off to BandQ for drill bit . Thought it was all too easy but better safe than sorry .
0 -
Actually, sorry it is the charger that could be affected. The actual instructions state it is not to be done, ie using the mover while connected to and drawing power from 240V as It could cause the damage to the charger.
NB. Using the Powrtouch Classic with the caravan connected to the 240volt mains could cause damage to the caravan internal charging system.
Someone did post on here that they had done this and it needed a new charger.
Just out of interest do you have to enter your van then to switch the mover on?
0 -
I had my switch fitted under the bed as the battery box, where it would normally be installed, is against the house wall when the caravan is at home and the switch obviously couldn't be accessed.
I have, once, accidentally used the MM for a very short time with the 240v power still connected. It didn't seem to cause any problems - thankfully, even though the handbook says it might do.
0 -
Sorry but if you have a mover why not use it to position the van so that battery box is on the other side opposite the wall?
It’s totally your choice of course and I'm not criticising in any way but I’m just curious?
0 -
is having it in the front locker (with the gas bottle) dangerous?
0 -
I can either have access to the battery box on one side or the caravan door which is on the other. Because of the storage space is only 30 inches wider than the caravan I can't have access to both sides and the door is the most important.
0 -
oh I see - yes sorry, thanks for the reply, like I said just wondered. You get use the roof light to get in?
0 -
When we collected our caravan all those years ago, the chap who did the hand-over (who was also the engineer who prepared the caravan) described the isolator switch as a rather pointless 'safety' device, that served no real purpose.
Given that some years later we were able to use the mover with the mains cable connected to the caravan (with the result that the battery charger burned out), then it would indeed seem to be rather pointless....or at least, doesn't do the job that it was designed to do.
0 -
yes I know where you said it was! I was trying to be helpful and suggesting that if there is no room in the battery box why not have the switch in the gas locker so you wouldn't have to enter your van?
0 -
I think you're confusing isolation of the 12 volt DC supply to the mover which was obviously closed/switched on with isolation of the 240 volt AC mains to the charger, which as the charger burnt out was closed /switch on too ..... the mover was trying to use more amps than the charger voild provide.
0 -
hence my question about it being dangerous in my original post, perhaps you should re read mine?
anyway sorry I asked
0 -
When someone asks a civilised question they are entitled to a civilised answer!!!
1 -
No Battery Power Isolation Switch required with my Caravan Mover, lol
1 -
For the most part, the isolator is in line with heavy duty cables running from the battery to the mover control box, supplying all of its power. Without an isolator, or when one is switched on, the control box, which is waiting for a 'switch on the motor mover circuitry' will be constantly drawing a small current. This will, over a period, deplete the battery charge unless the battery is kept topped up with a solar panel or mains lead. So the isolator needs to be switched off when parked.
With regard to parking in a narrow space with the battery box too close to a wall to open it. Park in the final position using your motor mover, then lower just the front legs. Now raise them just above the ground using the jockey wheel and slew the caravan as much as you can, to increase the front gap from the wall while reducing the rear. Now squeeze in to open the locker door, possibly partially, and switch the isolator off. This may be a good time to plug in a mains lead for charging. Close the locker, slew the van back straight by hand, lower the front of the van using the jockey wheel so that the legs touch the ground again, then lower the rear legs. While the whole procedure may be a bit gymnastic, with a degree of stretching to reach inside the battery box, it is something that we have done for years with different caravans.
0 -
When I refitted our mover to our new van. I couldn't think of any where convienent to fit the isolator switch. What I did was fit a 100amp power relay controlled by an illuminated rocker switch which is hidden in the water inlet housing. Works for me. Makes the the switch accessible and doesn't involve drilling the bodywork.
0 -
Ours too is in the battery box and I can either fit the motor mover key or the mains - not both!
I used to leave the key in the slot so there was less chance of losing it but when we had the van serviced I was told there would always be a drain on the battery if it was left in, so don't any more.
0 -
"I was told there would always be a drain on the battery if it was left in,"
Only if it is also switched on. "OFF" means that - there is no drain. I would not trust someone with that level of technical knowlege to service a pencil.
I would recomend leaving the isolation key in place (but switched OFF) while travelling as if you find you need to use the mover it will be some sort of emergency where wasting time finding the isolation switch key could be important. Like not having the hitch lock fitted when travelling (but putting it on if parked and left unattended).
0 -
There is no doubt that most movers require an isolation switch but as there are so many different types and different control systems it would be wrong to state this as a categorical requirement.
What is true, however, is that the mover takes a massive amount of current (about 30 amps) and if the 240 volts is connected and the mover decides to use the charger current (because it should be at a higher voltage than the nominal battery voltage) then the charger will almost certainly burn out. It is possible to design out this problem and judging by previous comments on this forum, some movers/controls have a way around this. Easy to do with relays etc. if you were so inclined.
So, as usual, the best advice is to consult the manufacturer. If in doubt, fit an isolator.
1 -
As Navigateur says off should mean off. You either need to change your isolation switch or your service place. The one disadvantage of leaving the key in the slot, that I can see, Is that when it's off the key is loose and it might fall out I used to hang the key on a little hook like the one used for net curtains next to the switch for easy access.
0 -
Having read the original question again, it did come with an isolation switch, therefore it needs to be fitted. Apparently some models do not.
1
