Alde fluid - my plan
I have plucked up courage to change the fluid in my Alde Heating System.
Caravan is Lunar Clubman SB 2011, with original blue fluid.
I have 5L Comma Xstream G40, de ionized water and a new plastic watering can.
I have found the drain plug and 6 bleed points.
Header tank is in Wardrobe in middle nearside of van, drain plug near the front of the van on the off side.
1St question , when I drain fluid off, will the towel rail in the bathroom prevent the nearside from draining?
If so how to I get the remaining fluid out?
next I intend to do a Flush, with tap water to clean out the system, is that a good idea?
I would like the system to be more or less empty before I replace the plug and add the new mixture. Can I do that?
Next step fill the system with a 50)/50 mix via Header Tank using watering can, allowing time for things to settle and bleeding all bleed points.
Allow to settle again, turn on pump to dislodge trapped air.
Turn on heating and see how it goes.
Such a lot of people on this, and other forums say it is straight forward, I really want to do it myself.
I would welcome any comments and advice regarding my plan.
Thanks
John
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There are a couple of videos on YouTube about doing this iob .... I'm on a phone or I'd paste a link. I would try to have just clean water in the system and then drain enough to add the required new antifreeze to give the correct percentage rather than fill the system will a dilute mixture.
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I can understand you wanting to do it yourself as I have just booked my Swift Elegance in for its annual service and have been told that the Alde heating fluid needs replacing at a cost of £180 on top of the service! I'll have them do it and begrudgingly pay the cost as a) don't trust myself to do it properly and b) it may affect the warranty if I DIY it.
Good luck, I'm sure it is not too difficult just a bit time consuming.
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I did this on a Clubman SE. First thing is to fit a tap on the outlet to replace the drain bung. This gives much more control on the drainage as the fluid is poisonous to pets so you don't want spills. You will have to get somewhere to dispose of the old fluid I gave mine to my son in law who owns his own garage, you can't pour it down the drain. Don't worry about getting all the old fluid out as the old and new are compatible just get out as much as you can. The towel rail is just like another radiator when you open the bleed screw the fluid will drain out. Just take your time and do it stage by stage and keep some made up fluid with you as towing may dislodge a little air so you can top up as necessary. Takes a bit of time but worth it in the end.
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Thank you for your replies. I will avoid using tap water.
The only videos I found on Youtbe were the ALDE ones using their special pump, will look again.
Retiredbleep , do you have an idea how much you drained from yours?
Whatever I get out, say 5, 8 or 10L, shall I just put the same amount back in as a 50/50 mix, or put the full 5L Xstream in then top up with water?
I read somewhere that the average Alde caravan system holds about 12L, but draining only gets out about half of it.
I am very patient and don`t mind spending time to get it right.
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I would say about 8 L it was a while ago so I can't be too accurate. I certainly did not try to get every last drop out. I flushed the system with a bit of ionized water and then topped up and I think I used a slightly stronger mix to allow for any water that was still in the system. I think you can test the strength of the mix with a antifreeze tester if you are worried but your judgement should suffice.
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I have done ours once, need to do it again later this year.
To clear out the old stuff I drained, filled with water to the usual level, circulated with the pump, repeat multiple times. Once only clean water came out I added the correct amount of glycol ( ours holds 13 litres of fluid) circulated and then topped up with water to the correct level.
After venting I topped up again, circulated, repeat 2 or 3 times.
Did not get any problems with air in the system
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Thanks KjellNN
Ours holds 13 L too, about how much did you get out when you drained?
You say " when only clean water came out you added the correct amount of glycol" .Not sure what you mean by the correct amount of glycol. Did you drain off 5L of clean water and put 5L neat glycol into the system, then let the pump mix it up?That would give a 40/60 mix i think.
I have 5L G40 and 8L de ionised water, better get more water to flush it through.
I appreciate your advice.
John
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I cannot remember exactly, maybe about 3-4 litres before it stopped coming out, it will depend on the layout of the pipes and radiators. I collected the fluid that came out each time and then added the same amount of clean water and circulated it with the pump to mix.
This diluated the mix each time, do it often enough and you will end up with pretty much just water.
Then I added concentrated Glycol, I used about 5 litres, it did not all go in at once, so I just ran the pump for a few seconds then drained out some more water and added the rest of the glycol, then any more topping up required I added water.
Took some spare glycol with us on the next trip, in case of air in the system, but never needed to top up again.
I was quite surprised!
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Just to put my two-penn'orth in...
Have just had the fluid changed to the five year standard at Alde in Wellingborough, £150. I had cause to go because whilst away last week the heating and water failed to work on 230v but was Ok on gas; the pump was obeying the control panel as regards time and temperature but was obviously only pumping cold water around. My dealer was unhelpful - it was Ok when he serviced it the week before apparently - but gave me Alde's number. They couldn't have been more helpful but decided it needed to be booked in. The fault turned out to be the main connection into the Sargent electrical supply unit, a nine pin connector one of which served the Alde unit and, because it had worked slightly loose, had arced and hence not working. This is not the first instance of this I was told and now in newer vans the units are installed on their backs so as to facilitate ease of use/display reading etc, the sockets can more easily drop out. the van is 3 years 10 days old so no one is interested in warranty work!
Anyway, the fluid change was advised and as this was the first I had ever heard of the need to do this I readily agreed. I was not told of this 3 years ago and it had never been mentioned by my dealer on servicing and I cannot see any references to it in all the paperwork. You live and learn even after 25 years caravanning!
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I wonder if the idea of empting the system and measuring the quantity coming out like we did in the old days when recharging a car's radiator system would work?.
On emptying, calculate amount needed and then half fill with the required water and then with the fluid. Running the system immediately will mix them together fairly quickly. Just an idea, would still need to faff around bleeding repeatedly mind.
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Well, I did it this morning. Hardest part was getting the brass bung out, and replacing it.
Removed the bung and about 2 1/2 litres came out. I poured 2 1/2 Litres water into the header tank and let another 2 1/2 litres drain out.
I made a temporary bung out of a piece of dowel, bunged the drain pipe and put 2 1/2 more litres of water in and ran the pump for a couple of minutes. Removed the bung and let it drain, the liquid was almost clear.
I poured about 2 lites of new red glycol in the header tank, looked at the draining liquid and it was just turning red.
Replaced the bung, it was tricky, awkward.
Topped up with new glycol, just about got the full 5 L in.
Having a rest now then will see if it needs bleeding.
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If the system does hold 13 litres then if you added 5 litres of diluted you are well under strength. No idea of dilution rate but even if 50% was the mix as bought you will have less than half the required strength in your system.
I would recommend checking the strength and if needed emptying some fluid (probably a fair amount if as you state the system holds 13 litres) and topping with neat antifreeze to obtain the correct concentration.
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As an aside. When I was at Alde the technician refilling my system said that they used the diluted mix to flush as they topped up. Although the materials were dearer that way it actually worked out cheaper for the company compared to the cost of labour in flushing with distilled and then adding antifreeze etc.
If I get my system refilled before I get rid of the van I feel a trip to Wellingborough coming on.
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I recon KjeIINN has this job by the scruff of the neck. I would go along with his method but add a 50/50 mixture. If the mixture is to thin you could get "kettling", a siuation where the fluid boil's just like central heating. It took the suplier a year to sort my caravan heating noise and Alde one telephone call to diagnose the issue.Hope this helps0
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I had a problem with Kettling. Only happened on 2kw not 1kw electric. Dealer new the problem and did a fluid change. They failed to get the right concentration and problem not solved. I took 'van to Alde who sorted it (Lunar picked up the bill). Alde contacted the dealer and explaine dwhy they had been unsuccessful.
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I recently changed the fluid in my Bailey.
Opened the drain (removed brass bung) and let it flow into a large bucket. Then opened each air vent until the flow stopped. Closed air vents. I inserted a short piece of garden size hose into the flow pipe in the header tank and gave short blasts of puff forcing out any water, (you could use one of the flo systems, used for winter drain downs). Once you can blow without any resistance then the system is empty. Do the same to the other pipe , in case there is any in that side of the system. Refit the brass drain bung.
Now here's the trick to fill the system with ease. Insert the hosepipe (about four or five inches) into the return pipe within the header tank. This will block the pipe from the header but act as a vent pipe during filling. Now slowly add the new fluid into the tank. As it goes in you may hear air escaping from the hose. Keep on filling until the header tank is full. Now open each air vent one at a time in order starting from the first one near the boiler, but ensuring that you top up the tank level as you do each one. Then remove the hosepipe. Turn on the pump and as the system circulates air will bubble out into the header. After a short while there will be just the fluid flowing and no air. You must keep the level topped up and only pour the fluid in slowly or you will introduce more air into the system that you are trying to clear.
My system only took about an hour to do. The van was tilted only slightly towards the drain and there was no need to tilt it to aid air removal.
kettling is caused by scale or sludge in a system, or by an faulty boiler thermostat causing the fluid to boil. That is the the noise you hear and it's sounds like a kettle, hence the name.
The five year fluid is compatible with the earlier one, so don't be too worried about any mixing, should you have not removed it all. If unsure, read the label, it tells you so.
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