hook up cable struggles

2wheels1
2wheels1 Forum Participant Posts: 2
edited March 2017 in Caravan & Motorhome Chat #1

Hi all

I am looking for some tips on how to make connecting/disconnecting the hook up cable easier.

Whilst I would say I am average size and strength, I really struggle to lift the spring hinged flap and pull the plug out at the same time.

Especially difficult is when I charge up at home and use a 13 amp socket adaptor. I just can do one or the other - lift the flap OR pull the two interconnecting  parts apart - not both at the same time

Every time I end up with skinned fingers and sore wrists. I have tried adding a dro of talc to the connecting pieces to make them run more smoothly. Any other tips ?

What if I took the hinged cover off - is this a safety hazard ? 

Comments

  • EasyT
    EasyT Forum Participant Posts: 16,194
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    edited March 2017 #2

    I would suggest silicon spray. I use silicon grease on the water connection to make that easier to disconnect

  • Pippah45
    Pippah45 Forum Participant Posts: 2,452
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    edited March 2017 #3

    Yes spray it - but I use both hands - one to lift the flap and the other to pull?  Having said that I do remember a few years ago I had so much trouble I grabbed a passing man (he was a worker on estate where the CL was) and he needed a screwdriver to finally prize it off - so lubricant was called for.  I admit that I only had WD40 handy at the time but it should have been silicon.  I suspect the fitting had been in the sun too long - and swelled.  This has reminded me to get the silcon spray out - mine needs it again. 

  • DavidKlyne
    DavidKlyne Club Member Posts: 13,867 ✭✭✭
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    edited March 2017 #4

    I have experienced stiff connection, particular when adding a short lead with a two pin plug for using abroad. I suspect it happens because different makes of sockets are used on the various connections which whilst meant to be exactly the same are not quite. When charging at home why not have a separate lead with the 13 amp plug top lead permanently connected as it might save a lot of frustration and grazed hands!!!

    David

     

  • Amesford
    Amesford Club Member Posts: 685 ✭✭✭
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    edited March 2017 #5

    In the shed we keep a dedicated hook up lead for home and always carry a can of silicone spray in the van its very useful even I get a spray if I squeak  

  • JohnM20
    JohnM20 Forum Participant Posts: 1,416
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    edited March 2017 #6

    I have found that it is not always the plastic of the plugs and sockets that cause the problem but the electrical pins and tubes. Whilst it is difficult to do much about the pins I have found that  using a drill bit inserted in the tubes and gently turned with the fingers takes off any slight burring on the end of the tubes. For the positive and negative tubes it is 5mm and 6.5mm for the earth tube. Doing this made my cable easier to connect without making the contacts too slack and risking any arcing in the plug. A bit of silicone on the plastic then made it easier still.

  • Navigateur
    Navigateur Club Member Posts: 3,880 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    edited March 2017 #7

    The cover is also the locking catch to keep the plug engaged in the socket. Removing it would allow a loose connection, arcing, heat and then fire.  The insurance company would be unlikely to pay out if tampering with the connector was the cause.

    Sprays may be a help, but make sure thay are suitable for use on electrical installations. Another likely cause for a stiff connection is damage to or misalignment of the pins, or debris in the socket holes.

    I would suggest you try using a known working well lead, perhaps borrowed from another caravaner, to find out if it works on your installation as a way to identifying the cause of the problem.

  • Aspenshaw
    Aspenshaw Forum Participant Posts: 611
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    edited March 2017 #8

    I have this problem when using the lead I bought to connect the van to the mains when at home. The one I use on sites is different and works a treat. My 'home lead' has always felt made from cheaper plastic which has not be as finely moulded.

    I'd try another lead from someone as Navigateur suggest.

  • KeefySher
    KeefySher Forum Participant Posts: 1,128
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    edited March 2017 #9

    Why not use the 'site' one with a suitable adapter on the house supply end?

    We do that, and have always with the MH over many years.

  • ABM
    ABM Forum Participant Posts: 14,578
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    edited March 2017 #10

    I'm  not  over  keen  on  the  use  of  "Sprays"  as  such.  I  much  prefer  to  use  some  Petroleum  Jelly ( A K A Vaseline  or  similar) after  I  have  done  some  serious  cleaning  of  the  various  surfaces  [ with  the  cables  unplugged  at  BOTH ENDS  ! ]  This  film  will  hold  any  grit,  dirt  etc  and  allow  its  easy  removal  as  well  as  making  the  item  waterproof  and  easy  to  use.

  • DavidKlyne
    DavidKlyne Club Member Posts: 13,867 ✭✭✭
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    edited March 2017 #11

    One thing to perhaps think about is that the male end of the connector is often dragged across the ground and on hardstandings could get burrs that could make it difficult to joint the two connectors a small file or nail sanding board would get rid of the burrs?

    David

  • Nuggy
    Nuggy Forum Participant Posts: 512
    edited March 2017 #12

    I would give the plastic surfaces a light sanding and then a good dollop of Vaseline, even on the pins. That should work a treat. Is there someone else available to hold the flap up so you can use two hands?

  • Aspenshaw
    Aspenshaw Forum Participant Posts: 611
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    edited March 2017 #13

    Hello, KeefySher; the one used at home is shorter and less of a trip hazard where we park the van. Not much of a reason I know, neither is that I might forget the cable if one wasn't always in the van or that the one in the van is a faff to get out.smile We used to use the 'site one' until there was an incident.

  • KeefySher
    KeefySher Forum Participant Posts: 1,128
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    edited March 2017 #14

    No worries. Ours is 'threaded' around various garden ornaments to keep it from being a trip hazard.

    In the days of the MH we used to reply to enquiries of 'why is that lead there?', with 'it's an electric MH, and is charging ready for the next journey cool'.

    Using the site one at home means it won't be left behind in our case as the cable travels in the boot of the tow car. Also means as it requires winding up can check it's condition, and make sure the other bits of kit are taken out of the garage.

  • markflip
    markflip Forum Participant Posts: 177
    edited April 2017 #15

    I use GT85 PTFE spray on my hook up and 7 pin plugs and sockets - it is a bike lubricant really, but does a good job of cleaning and making plastic 'slippery'. Aldi sometimes have it in at a very good price and a can lasts ages. It's good on window seals, door and window hinges, locker/doorlocks and many other little household & caravan jobs.

    tesco also sell it at £2:

    Personally, i would advise against the use of vaseline or  a grease as these tend to 'grab' and hold dirt and grit and will be  a swine to clean out of the receiver tubes in the socket end of the cable, should you get grit particles in there.

  • hitchglitch
    hitchglitch Forum Participant Posts: 3,007
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    edited April 2017 #16

    On plastic components it is better to use silicon grease rather than Vaseline which can attack rubber washers and gaskets (particularly O rings). I would spray the electrical connections sparingly with WD40 and wipe off any excess as it attracts dirt etc. as has been said.

  • ABM
    ABM Forum Participant Posts: 14,578
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    edited April 2017 #17

    Not  difficult  to  remove  actually,  Markflip  --  the  only  safe  use  for  those  bits  of  cotton  wool  on  a  stick  wink

  • mickysf
    mickysf Forum Participant Posts: 6,474 ✭✭✭
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    edited April 2017 #18

    Keep both plastic and metal parts clean and lubricted but don't sand or file brass pins tubes as they rely on an interference fit for safety.