Do you turn off your mains isolator switch or not?

Alphonso Delard
Alphonso Delard Forum Participant Posts: 36
edited July 2016 in Caravan & Motorhome Chat #1

Following on from a post within another thread,

http://www.caravanclub.co.uk/community/discussions/welcome-hobby-talk/caravan-motorhome-chat/Livw-wire-campervanners-/rt/1526408/?p=0

The "correct" way to  connect the van to a EHU bollard is....

Switch off main isolator in the van

Connect lead to van

Connect lead to bollard

Switch on van isolator.

 

I never turn off our main isolator, although I always connect lead to van first.

So, CT users, am I on my own or is this the norm for other vanners. If I could create a poll, I would, don't think that's an option on here...

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Comments

  • Cornersteady
    Cornersteady Club Member Posts: 14,431 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #2

    I conect the cable to the van first then bollard, switch bollard 'on' if required (twist and lock). Then swtich on the mains isolation. Reverse procedure for leaving.

    I also use the RCB test button after switching on inside the van.

  • Alphonso Delard
    Alphonso Delard Forum Participant Posts: 36
    edited July 2016 #3

    Belt and braces. Whereas I perhaps just trust in a belt.

  • Marksailor
    Marksailor Forum Participant Posts: 57
    edited July 2016 #4

    I second cornersteady on that one. I always connect first with isolation switch off, then check all appliances are off (such as water heater) and then turn on- plus check RCB. And also note if the polarity reverse light is on.

  • Runrig
    Runrig Forum Participant Posts: 186
    edited July 2016 #5

    Exactly as Cornersteady for me too

  • ocsid
    ocsid Forum Participant Posts: 1,395
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    edited July 2016 #6

    You are not alone in that I don't delve into the wardrobe to configure the contactor though when reminded I know this is the "right" practice. I am not sure I am actually allowed to go into the wardrobe other than by invititation Wink

    Coupled to this it is only rarely I use an EHU, a few winter camps and the 6 weeks in France, all the rest we are off EHU.

    I probably test the RCD 2 or 3 times a year

  • Cornersteady
    Cornersteady Club Member Posts: 14,431 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #7

    I second cornersteady on that one. I always connect first with isolation switch off, then check all appliances are off (such as water heater) and then turn on- plus check RCB. And also note if the polarity reverse light is on.

    good point about checking the water heater switch is off, if it is on with no water in the tank, the safety thermal cutout will, err, cutout.

  • Marksailor
    Marksailor Forum Participant Posts: 57
    edited July 2016 #8

    I second cornersteady on that one. I always connect first with isolation switch off, then check all appliances are off (such as water heater) and then turn on- plus check RCB. And also note if the polarity reverse light is on.

    good point about checking the water heater switch is off, if it is on with no water in the tank, the safety thermal cutout will, err, cutout.

    I have done that- connected the generator to the caravan in storage so I could vacuum, and the water heater was on. Needless to say the generator didn't like it and cut out! Lesson learnt!

  • iffajobsworthdoing
    iffajobsworthdoing Forum Participant Posts: 94
    edited July 2016 #9

    Must be lucky, have never turned van off before plugging in, sometimes I throw caution to the wind and plug the bollard in first. And Alde heating looks after itself, it knows when there is water in it or not.

  • Cornersteady
    Cornersteady Club Member Posts: 14,431 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #10

    I second cornersteady on that one. I always connect first with isolation switch off, then check all appliances are off (such as water heater) and then turn on- plus check RCB. And also note if the polarity reverse light is on.

    good point about checking the water heater switch is off, if it is on with no water in the tank, the safety thermal cutout will, err, cutout.

    I have done that- connected the generator to the caravan in storage so I could vacuum, and the water heater was on. Needless to say the generator didn't like it and cut out! Lesson learnt!

    The cut out tripped on us once, I think I emptied the water heater tank before switching off, it took quite a while to track down why the heater wasn't working the next time we were setting up, and its takes quite a bit of presure to press it back in (Truma
    Combi 6)

  • Rocky 2 buckets
    Rocky 2 buckets Forum Participant Posts: 7,101
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    edited July 2016 #11

    Another one here CornersEmbarassed, it's a good job these pieces of kit are robust & quite forgivingLaughing

  • KjellNN
    KjellNN Club Member Posts: 8,671 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #12

    Never turn off the main switch between sites, but do try to remember to  turn off the Alde before leaving a site......can never be sure  how many amps the next site will have.

    So nothing will spring into life immediately other than the battery charger, fridge power source has to be selected.

  • JVB66
    JVB66 Forum Participant Posts: 22,892
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    edited July 2016 #13

    In all the years since got my first caravan with ehu (about the fourth i think)i have always on arrival plugged into van first then bollard ,and bollard then van on leaving ,but i have never tripped vans breakers  on or off but do check rcd some timesEmbarassed

  • Marksailor
    Marksailor Forum Participant Posts: 57
    edited July 2016 #14

    On my 'van, the water heater switch is at a perfect height on the bench seat to be knocked by foot- so now have learnt to make sure its off before turning isolator on!

  • SteveL
    SteveL Club Member Posts: 12,311 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #15

    I conect the cable to the van first then bollard, switch bollard 'on' if required (twist and lock). Then swtich on the mains isolation. Reverse procedure for leaving.

    I also use the RCB test button after switching on inside the van.

    I do the same. On our current van when you switch the isolator on the microwave beeps, so you know you have power. When it doesn't it is usually because I have forgotten to rotate the bollard plug. Then always test the RCD. Our current van has Alde heating,
    so not a problem now, but did turn on a couple of times without water in our previous one. Fortunately the cut out reset OK.

  • neveramsure
    neveramsure Forum Participant Posts: 712
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    edited July 2016 #16

    It looks like I am in the minority, although I always plug into caravan first and then the supply, I never turn the power off in the caravan.Undecided

    In my defence I always make sure that both heater switches and pump are off at the end of any holiday. The only thing left on is the charger so that it is automatically on when I get home and plug into the mains.Smile
     

  • eurortraveller
    eurortraveller Club Member Posts: 6,830 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #17

    I look at the Orange cable, see which end I am holding and plug it in - so it's sometimes caravan first, sometimes bollard first, never switch the main switch off, (it's buried under the bed and never been touched in ten years with this van), never check polarity, never check the earth thing, never come to any harm. 

  • EmilysDad
    EmilysDad Forum Participant Posts: 8,973
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    edited July 2016 #18

    It looks like I am in the minority, although I always plug into caravan first and then the supply, I never turn the power off in the caravan.Undecided

     .....

    Same here, though I confess that I've mistakenly left both the heating & water  heater on at times Embarassed

  • Vicmallows
    Vicmallows Forum Participant Posts: 580
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    edited July 2016 #19

    I look at the Orange cable, see which end I am holding and plug it in - so it's sometimes caravan first, sometimes bollard first, never switch the main switch off, (it's buried under the bed and never been touched in ten years with this van), never check
    polarity, never check the earth thing, never come to any harm. 

    Precisely!  .... A lot more significant 'hazards' to worry about.

  • RangeRoverMan
    RangeRoverMan Forum Participant Posts: 125
    edited July 2016 #20

    Embarassed

    I look at the Orange cable, see which end I am holding and plug it in - so it's sometimes caravan first, sometimes bollard first, never switch the main switch off, (it's buried under the bed and never been touched in ten years with this van), never check polarity, never check the earth thing, never come to any harm. 

    Same here. Switched the main switch on 10 years ago and not touched it since. Dont care which end of the cable I plug in first. Also I've never checked nose weight or GVW in 50 years of trouble free (almost) towing.

  • hitchglitch
    hitchglitch Forum Participant Posts: 3,007
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    edited July 2016 #21

    There are some rather irresponsible comments above which I will not refer to.

    For the record, the correct procedure is as I listed on the other post. You are supposed to switch the isolator in the van off, then the last thing you do is to switch it on after connecting your lead to the van (first) and bollard (second). There is no debate about this, it is listed in any handbook or advice by the Club and others and is best practice. If you want me to list all the things that could go wrong if you don't do this then the thread will go on forever.

    As I mentioned on the other thread, like most people I do not switch off the idolater in the van. Your choice.

  • hitchglitch
    hitchglitch Forum Participant Posts: 3,007
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    edited July 2016 #22

    I realise that I left my comment open ended.  Somebody is going to ask ”... but why is it best practice to switch off in the van before connecting to the bollard”.

    So, the reason is that most people leave things switched on in their van – lights, perhaps the water heater etc.  So, when you connect to the mains, current immediately starts to flow. The
    switch is sprung loaded so it makes a rapid and clean connection to break or make the circuit when current is flowing in it.  This minimises arcing and contains any arc within the body of the switch (it is quite possible to observe the arc in a power switching
    device as I have done many times). If the isolator is on and various loads already connected in your van, when you plug in the EHU you are using the plug and socket as a Switch.  One or other of the connectors will make contact first and there may be anything
    up to 16 amps (or more under fault conditions) immediately flowing in that circuit.  A plug and socket is NOT designed to do that and it is potentially dangerous. If a short circuit has developed in your system since you last used it then the risks are even
    higher.

    All the advice given by the Club, handbooks and other expert bodies is there for a good reason and is based on what could and has gone wrong in the past causing accidents, burns and fatalities.

    Everybody can do as they wish but unless you know exactly what you are doing and why you are doing it, then it is always best to follow the advice.

  • Tammygirl
    Tammygirl Club Member Posts: 7,957 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #23

    I've never turned off the isolator in the van. I do always plug in the van first and bollard last. I also make sure everything in the van is switched off like water heater, the fridge is the last to be turned off or over to 12v. We have a routine been doing
    it for 35 years.Smile

  • DavidKlyne
    DavidKlyne Club Member Posts: 13,867 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #24

    I've never turned off the isolator in the van. I do always plug in the van first and bollard last. I also make sure everything in the van is switched off like water heater, the fridge is the last to be turned off or over to 12v. We have a routine been doing it for 35 years.Smile

    Same here. Moving between sites or home and a site everything is switched off in the motorhome except the charger so no initial load except the charger. The fridge is turned over to electric once connected.

    David

  • young thomas
    young thomas Club Member Posts: 11,357 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #25

    with our previous two Boleros, the RCD was easy to locate on the Sargent PSU, along with the breakers and the power switches for the Heater and Water Heater elements of the Truma Combi......although i did as TG and (generally) plugged the cable into the
    van first, thought never turned off the isolator...

    in this van, i havent yet found an RCD, only a comsumer unit/distribution box with a couple of breakers and another with the charger and on/off switch. i have discussed this with DD (similar van) and he hasnt located his RCD either.....

    now, this is either deliberate and is a result of the 'continentals' different electrics set up (double pole??)....or they have buried it somewhere that users wont find it.....Undecided

    also, AFAIK, i dont have separate 'power buttons' for the Truma Combi 6E as we did in the two Boleros.....unless its linked to the breakers i have found on the consumer unit...

    any other owners of Conti vans who have the electrics set up in a non-UK manner...

    eg....MichaelT with your new Knaus.....

    either way, no issues so far in 18 months.....

  • Cornersteady
    Cornersteady Club Member Posts: 14,431 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #26

    slighly off topic, so following on what do people do with the 12V master switch when towing or storage? or the pump master switch during the day (when you're out and about of course)?

     

  • JVB66
    JVB66 Forum Participant Posts: 22,892
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    edited July 2016 #27

    We turn of fthe pump when out and at night and it is all turned off when towing and in storage,and and when towing home and in storage the fridge is turned off as the internal light has its own supply and the door is always "open"

  • Alphonso Delard
    Alphonso Delard Forum Participant Posts: 36
    edited July 2016 #28

    slighly off topic, so following on what do people do with the 12V master switch when towing or storage? or the pump master switch during the day (when you're out and about of course)?

    Sometimes I turn the pump off, but only if I've had difficulties with the external pump, sometimes it needs a bit of a "wiggle" to get working properly. Master switch left on as soon as we arrive at a site, until we leave. The master switch is just for the
    battery power though isn't it? Sockets still work when connected to EHU even if master switch is off.

    Although I never turn off the isolator switch, the water heater, fridge etc always either powered off completely or turned to the battery setting so it works with the car.

    Interesting to read the replies to my starting post. Guessing about 50/50 on isolator switching from the replies so far. I never test the RCD, presume that gets done when the van is serviced and all is OK following that. Not sure if the replies have been
    convincing enough for me to change my habits, of just leaving it on, and it seems other vanners do the same as me. At least the thread has reminded me to dig out the polarity tester before I head off to France at the weekend :-)

  • SteveL
    SteveL Club Member Posts: 12,311 ✭✭✭
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    edited July 2016 #29

    Turn pump off when out for the day as it is near the door and easy to do. Although it occasionally cuts in for a couple of seconds, when a tap is not open, it has never done more than this. However, better to be safe than sorry. Usually turn off 12 volt
    master when towing and always in storage. Power mover and alarm / tracker work with this off in any event.

  • MichaelT
    MichaelT Forum Participant Posts: 1,874
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    edited July 2016 #30

    with our previous two Boleros, the RCD was easy to locate on the Sargent PSU, along with the breakers and the power switches for the Heater and Water Heater elements of the Truma Combi......although i did as TG and (generally) plugged the cable into the van first, thought never turned off the isolator...

    in this van, i havent yet found an RCD, only a comsumer unit/distribution box with a couple of breakers and another with the charger and on/off switch. i have discussed this with DD (similar van) and he hasnt located his RCD either.....

    now, this is either deliberate and is a result of the 'continentals' different electrics set up (double pole??)....or they have buried it somewhere that users wont find it.....Undecided

    also, AFAIK, i dont have separate 'power buttons' for the Truma Combi 6E as we did in the two Boleros.....unless its linked to the breakers i have found on the consumer unit...

    any other owners of Conti vans who have the electrics set up in a non-UK manner...

    eg....MichaelT with your new Knaus.....

    either way, no issues so far in 18 months.....

    Write your comments here...BB, I have not really looked at the electrics as they are under the bench seat in the lounge area but from memory there is a couple of circuit breakers cannot recall a RCD but not 100% sure.  The battery chargers are under the drivers and pasenger seats with the batteries so never looked at them.  There is no switch for the Truma heater apart from the main truma control panel above the door as far as I know and by turning off the main Knaus panel next to it it turns everything off.  So maybe its a UK v Continental design thing.  I do have a blanked off socket in the bathroom though which I guess would be in use in other countries and I guess I could commission if I wanted.

    As for plugging in I just use whatever end I have in my hand and put that in first be it van or bollard and have never turned the isolator switch off and touch wood not had any issues.

  • volvoman9
    volvoman9 Forum Participant Posts: 1,053
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    edited July 2016 #31

    I never turn the isolator switch off but nothing is left switched on when the van is not in use.

    v9