Motor mover fitting
l have an old powr touch model 3 mover. Which has lived in my garage for the last 5 years. I want to fit it to our new van. As soon as the weather improves. Originally it came with a an isolation switch and key. This would be inconvenient to refit because there is no where obvious to fit it. I have an idea that I can replace this switch with a relay as there is a convenient place to install a rocker switch to power it off and on. Are there any reasons why this is a bad idea?
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Only issue I think will be retail sourcing a good 12 VDC, 120 odd amp relay though I expect they are used in the boat and truck world though at 24 volts. Be interesting to know how it goes. My manual switches in both Hymers have all been mounted very close to the battery [on purpose made bracket] and accessed by just easing up the seating enough to put ones hand in. Not ideal re access but excellent re limiting power loses in too much cabling.
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The problem doing that in this van is that the battery is under the seat opporsite the door there is no hatch close by. Powrtouch have advised me I should keep leads as is otherwise I might problems. I have sourced an 80amp relay as well as an 80amp fuse. The early movers didn't come with fuse. I have bench tested the setup and it seems to work fine. I even have the special chassis plates that powrtouch tell me might be needed for a Hymer. The powr bar had seized had has been replaced. The centre bar was too short powr touch sell a replacement 2.50m for £50. The local steel stockist sells the same box section for £20 for 7.5m. Guess which route I've taken? Should be good to go what could possibly go wrong? At least I can't be any more incompetent than the clowns that did the initial installation
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The problem doing that in this van is that the battery is under the seat opporsite the door there is no hatch close by.
So is mine; I just open the door kneel on the van floor and tuck my hand under the seat top to turn the isolator switch which is mounted shaft vertical handle just 5 odd mms below the seat base. Very easily done with tips of fingers.
Re the cross bar, why not cut it close to one end and insert a bit of square steel bar and pin through or tap for a fine bolt. Much as they do themselves. I assume this is to accomodate the 100 mm increase in the new Hymers build width?
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I haven't explained this very well. The Caravan has an off side door. The battery is situated under the near side front seat. I really can't reach that far honest
The ehu connection on a Hymer is big enough for the ehu plug nothing more and is on the opporsite side of the van to the battery. Which is why I am going to go for the relay and small switch.On the powr touch the central beam is simply a piece of 50x30x3mm box section albeit powder coated. I have repainted the rest of the unit with a cream coloured smooth hammerite cream coloured paint so similar to the original colour so I have simply painted
the beam as well. Just waiting for the weather to improve. I believe that the cross actuation bar is extendable to fit the chassis. I don't intend to use it very often it is quicker to reverse but sometimes IE when I've screwed it up it will be a useful
alternative I hope. Ip0 -
I think that the isolating switch has a partial safety function in that when it is switched on it gives a pure battery only feed to the mover control unit to avoid damage to the ECU controll unit and battery charger.
I have seen this in my hand book ref my mover which is a Purple Line Ego with a Quattro control unit where there is a specific warning on this issue
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