Caravan Brakes
Hello the place I usually for my caravan service has closed down. My brother in law is a mechanic and he is going to mechanically check over my caravan. I remember there being something particular about the drum brakes- shear off bolt?? Does anyone know
what they are called and where I could by four? Thanks.
Comments
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If this is an Al-Ko chassis of recent origin, there are "one shot nuts" that require removing to take off the hub (supposedly special tool(s) needed to remove the hub cap and possibly the hub itself?)
Once the hub is off then the brakes can be inspected and pivot points lubricated etc.
It is critical to do this correctly, both for safety and to ensure the bearings are not damaged.
Then, a NEW "one shot nut" (from your dealer or online?) MUST be fitted and torqued to the correct high value.
I haven't given any torque settings or details because it depends on you wanting to go ahead with this (I think there is some information around and possibly You Tube videos?)
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I've never understood the need for 'one shot nuts' or indeed what function they perform that is not available by a 'conventional' nut.
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I've never understood the need for 'one shot nuts' or indeed what function they perform that is not available by a 'conventional' nut.
Thet are a form self locking nut. The threads are slightly crimped at one end making them slightly oval. Once fitted the the threads are spread if refited the thread will not grip as tight.
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Only a fraction of a Euro cheaper than using "Nyloc" nuts, but if you use a lot of them, or can charge a great premium for them, you make money.
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If this is an Al-Ko chassis of recent origin, there are "one shot nuts" that require removing to take off the hub (supposedly special tool(s) needed to remove the hub cap and possibly the hub itself?)
Once the hub is off then the brakes can be inspected and pivot points lubricated etc.
It is critical to do this correctly, both for safety and to ensure the bearings are not damaged.
Then, a NEW "one shot nut" (from your dealer or online?) MUST be fitted and torqued to the correct high value.
I haven't given any torque settings or details because it depends on you wanting to go ahead with this (I think there is some information around and possibly You Tube videos?)
Thanks all for the advice. It's for a a 2008 Al-Ko twin axel chassis. I've looked at the Youtube video's thanks (hadn't hought to look there). Do you have the torque settings for the one shot nuts? Now I know what they are called I can see that a few
dealers sell them online. Struggling to understand why I have previously been charged £30 for 4 !0 -
If this is an Al-Ko chassis of recent origin, there are "one shot nuts" that require removing to take off the hub (supposedly special tool(s) needed to remove the hub cap and possibly the hub itself?)
Once the hub is off then the brakes can be inspected and pivot points lubricated etc.
It is critical to do this correctly, both for safety and to ensure the bearings are not damaged.
Then, a NEW "one shot nut" (from your dealer or online?) MUST be fitted and torqued to the correct high value.
I haven't given any torque settings or details because it depends on you wanting to go ahead with this (I think there is some information around and possibly You Tube videos?)
Thanks all for the advice. It's for a a 2008 Al-Ko twin axel chassis. I've looked at the Youtube video's thanks (hadn't hought to look there). Do you have the torque settings for the one shot nuts? Now I know what they are called I can see that a few
dealers sell them online. Struggling to understand why I have previously been charged £30 for 4 !Most of the e-bay ads give the socket size and torque setting and I think there is some info on Al-Ko website. Only point to note is that some of the ads say PATTERN rather than genuine Al-Ko (stamped?) but the price doesn't seem to differ much?
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If this is an Al-Ko chassis of recent origin, there are "one shot nuts" that require removing to take off the hub (supposedly special tool(s) needed to remove the hub cap and possibly the hub itself?)
Once the hub is off then the brakes can be inspected and pivot points lubricated etc.
It is critical to do this correctly, both for safety and to ensure the bearings are not damaged.
Then, a NEW "one shot nut" (from your dealer or online?) MUST be fitted and torqued to the correct high value.
I haven't given any torque settings or details because it depends on you wanting to go ahead with this (I think there is some information around and possibly You Tube videos?)
Thanks all for the advice. It's for a a 2008 Al-Ko twin axel chassis. I've looked at the Youtube video's thanks (hadn't hought to look there). Do you have the torque settings for the one shot nuts? Now I know what they are called I can see that a few
dealers sell them online. Struggling to understand why I have previously been charged £30 for 4 !Most of the e-bay ads give the socket size and torque setting and I think there is some info on Al-Ko website. Only point to note is that some of the ads say PATTERN rather than genuine Al-Ko (stamped?) but the price doesn't seem to differ much?
The nut threads should be lightly greased and torqued to 290Nm. Any excess grease is wiped off. The more difficult task can be removing the tight nut in the first place! Good luck
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