Jockey wheel unwinding
this has happened twise now, the jocky wheel has un wound its self when driving.
Is there a problem with the Jockey
what I do now is tie off the top of the jockey so it can't unwind.
going to Spain next week, is there anything else I can do.
thanks
Comments
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I had exactly this problem when moving to a new Bailey Unicorn T/A. I had never had it happen in previous caravans and oddly enough in a Bailey Unicorn Seville which had exactly the same set up. My practice for the previous caravans had always been the same. Wind the jockey wheel up until a turn before being tight and then pull the column up until the wheel touched the underneath of the A.frame cover. I then wound the wheel up tight aagainst the A. frame cover. If the road was bumpy sure enought the wheel descended over distance and struck the road. I posted on here and Spannerdo came up with the solution. The A frame cover would flex just enough so as not to grip the wheel and it would descend under gravity. The correct method is to wind the jockey wheel up as tight as it will go (make sure the two flanges recess into the two slots on the column) and only then pull up the centre column so the wheel is up against the cover. In effect you are locking metal to metal rather metal to a fibre glass cover. After that no problem and I did not need the other suggestions of securing with a bungie cord etc.
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One thing Tirril mentioned that is worth repeating, the outer tube has two 'cut outs' at the bottom and the 'wheel brackets' have to be wound up into these cut outs to stop the wheel assembly from swinging round and dropping You might already be aware
of this, no harm in double checking.1 -
Although this is not an issue I have ever experienced, I subscribe to the method Tirril describes, in winding it up as tight as possible & then pulling up the column and clamping tight against the A-frame. I borrowed a horse box the other day to move our daughters pony, and was impressed with the design of the jockey wheel on it.
If you follow the link, you can make out 2 D rings, one mounted to the outer shaft & one mounted on the handle collet ring. So you wind the wheel up until the 2 D-rings line up, then pop the R-clip through. Hey Presto, handle locked in place, and with the ribbed shaft, less chance of the whole assembly dropping. If you're handy with a welder maybe something you could try on your present Jockey Wheel (the D-rings, not the ribbed shaft
), or replace the whole assembly with a heavy duty one, but there will no doubt be a weight penalty going down that route.Paul.
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I used to have exactly the same problem with our previous Lunar. Although the jockey wheel was lifted perfectly correctly and fully tightened, vibration over time and distance loosened it a couple of times whilst on long journeys. To ensure it was safe and
secure I used to tie the handle off with a length of cord wrapped around the jockey wheel tube.0 -
PS It took me a while to work out why it was coming loose.. With a well serviced / lubricated / newish jockey wheel, when its on the car and in the up position, try just slapping the handle for a while as if to loosen it with your hand to simulate vibration
on a roughish road surface. The handle eventally revolves, the wheel gradually lowers despite the jockey wheel tube remaining in the up position... Eventually the wheel touches the ground.... Well mine did at any rate.
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After having this happen on M40 we now hook on a bungee, wrap around A frame and back to jockey. Never had problem since.
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I do similar to Tirril, but the opposite way round.
I pull the column up so that the wheel lines up with the A frame but an inch or two from the top. Then I wind the handle to bring the wheel up the rest of the way, so that it's really snug within the A frame. Always give the handle an extra nudge to make
sure it's tight.Not had it slip down yet, but maybe some are 'looser' than others?
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I do similar to Tirril, but the opposite way round.
I pull the column up so that the wheel lines up with the A frame but an inch or two from the top. Then I wind the handle to bring the wheel up the rest of the way, so that it's really snug within the A frame. Always give the handle an extra nudge to make
sure it's tight.Not had it slip down yet, but maybe some are 'looser' than others?
But has your wheel bracket tightened up to the tube.column or has the wheel tightened up to something else under the A frame?
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I do similar to Tirril, but the opposite way round.
I pull the column up so that the wheel lines up with the A frame but an inch or two from the top. Then I wind the handle to bring the wheel up the rest of the way, so that it's really snug within the A frame. Always give the handle an extra nudge to make sure it's tight.
Not had it slip down yet, but maybe some are 'looser' than others?
But has your wheel bracket tightened up to the tube.column or has the wheel tightened up to something else under the A frame?
The wheel bracket tightens up to the A frame (I feel underneath to make sure that's happening) and the wheel wedges into the A frame (it's a pneumatic one, so maybe a bit fatter than some)
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Obviously it works for you Ian however nipping the tyre against the top of the A Frame cover was the reason I had problems but only on the current caravan. I put the cause down to the A Frame fibre glass panel flexing on bad road surfaces and failing to grip the tyre. I used you method on previous caravans without any problem.
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we've had this a couple of times with our Coachman though never on any of our previous vans. It's pretty scary when it happens. Agree with Tirril's method, and tightening both the top handle and the clamp what we used to term in the motor trade "FT"
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Interesting that geoffeales has also had this happen to a Coachman. This happened to us on the M62 near Huddersfield on our 2 year old coachman when it was only 6 months old. The noise of it hitting the road when in unwound was very worrying and since we
were at a junction but past the off slip when it happened meant the wheel was smashed before we could stop. I now make sure that the wheel is tightly wound up into the slot and also use a bungee.0 -
It's worth remembering as you tighten up the clamp, to jiggle the top of the strut gently to make sure it is sitting snugly in the clamp or it can shake loose.
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I tightened my jockey wheel as tight as I dare on the top handle but it still vibrated loose, causing thewhole wheel to become in contact with road, not good. Wheel was replaced under warranty and they said to tighten it by hand as far as possible on hop handle (& secure with locking handle too). Upon tightening, the top spindle bust and I had to get a new top handle. Can’t believe that the whole arrangement (top handle) relies on a roll clip to keep it from dropping to the road surface & buckling, causing potential accident. There must be a better way to secure the wheel from dropping?
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