Problems getting seal with Calor Lite cylinders
A few years ago I swapped from butane to propane using the Calor Lite cylinders. Ok at first then I started to have problems getting a seal. I changed the conector hose on my 'van to the Gaslow Easy-Fit one and havee no problems now. Wanted to use the same
cylinders at home for BBQ. Have same problem with the regulator I bought. Always get a slight leak. Do others have the same problem? How do I fix it. I checked that the metal surfaces are clean and not marked and tighten the joint as far as I can. Seems
a poor solution having a metal-to-metal joint.. Don't have any experience with other types of propane cylinders,
Comments
-
I had a similar problem and phoned Calor's technical help line because I wondered whether I was missing a gasket. The answer - it's a face to face connection and needs to be tight!
My often expressed view is that it is a poor product, not light, not a snap fit and Victorian design. Trust me, they will go out of business and a European manufacturer will take over. There are far better products including Gas Light which the Dutch have
embraced whole heartedly (as BP Light).0 -
I had a similar problem and phoned Calor's technical help line because I wondered whether I was missing a gasket. The answer - it's a face to face connection and needs to be tight!
My often expressed view is that it is a poor product, not light, not a snap fit and Victorian design. Trust me, they will go out of business and a European manufacturer will take over. There are far better products including Gas Light which the Dutch have
embraced whole heartedly (as BP Light).i don't want to pee on your chips but calor is a Dutch owned company.
0 -
Propane in the UK is a standard brass 5/8 BSP fitting LH, one of the main reasons some cylinder valves do not seal is that the mistaken view that the connection has to be an unbelievable tight fit and what they do is over tight the regulator into the valve
and by doing this they expand the cylinder valve or it mishapes. Brass to brass fittings should be hand tight then one tap on the spanner with the hand and the fittings will seal, but as I said earlier if your cylinder valve has been over tightened before,
that will leak when you get it, so you then in time follow the same pattern, which will be repeated till either the cylinder test or reported leaky/ non sealing valve then it will be re-valved. Not defending Calor but one of the major unnesscessary costs
to gas companies is the replacement of valves that have been over tightened, all goes on the cost of the refill in the long term, hope this is of help0 -
How do you define "a slight leak"? The gas is very smelly and it lingers inside fittings and hoses such that when one connects or disconnects there is always a smell of gas. It does also linger on one's hands and clothes.
To test for a leak use soapy water and look for bubbles. Take a picture and haul the cylinder off to the nearest Calor agent to get it replaced as defective.
0 -
Over-tightening is a widespread practice on taps as well. Remember folks, you are turning off taps, not fixing car cylinder head bolts. A slight trickle will usually stop after a moment or two. Overtightening exacerbates the problem until progressive and
increased overtightening produces a continuous leak.0 -
I define a 'slight leak' Navigateur by exactly the method you describe! The first time it happened I didn't need to do that - I could hear it! Reckon I'd have to haave taken everyone back... Anyway, as I said caravan fixed sometime ago with the Gaslow
connection and yesterday ordered a replacement standalone regulator with the softnose seal (like the Gaslow kit). Just wondered if it was me... Regarding overtightening - it would be a positive step of Calor told us not to overtighten if that does exacerbate
the problem.0 -
If you check for a leak with soapy water, then ensure that you wash it off with plenty of fresh water immediately- most detergents (such as washing up liquids) contain salts and are quite alkline, and these can damage pipework and joints; quite often we
find that happens on marine LPG systems, especially around compression joints. There are specific leak detector sprays available (best ones are pump action, I find) and are not expensive if you want to check seals regularly. I also agree wholheartedly with
not overtightening joints- the advice given by people avbove is excellent.0