Multimeters
I don't have one and looking at them on line there is a huge range, with prices ranging from around £10 to 40+. Is there a huge difference in the job they do and has anyone a suggestion of the "best buy" for just general caravan use?
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I've always used one costing less than a tenner and they've been fine. When all said and done, accuracy isn't an issue although I've no reason to doubt the accuracy of the ones I've used. You're going to be looking for both 12v and 240v - and it's either there or it isn't! The other check is continuity (a blown fuse, loose wire perhaps) and you either have a circuit or you don't. The only thing I would recommend is getting one with an audible signal for continuity - it's sometimes useful to be able to hear the 'beep' when you're working in some stupid space where perhaps you can't see the meter reading. Not all of them have that feature, so worth checking. I think this is the last one I bought
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Morning
I have the same on as richard posts above. A £10 is plenty good enough for basic use. I always remove the battery when not in use.
JK
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I have had. professional relationship with multimeters for my whole career. Now retired, I can still put my hand onto at least 4 digital and one analogue meter here at home.
For general caravan use, cheap is fine. The advice from both richardandros and JK above is spot on. You need an AC voltage range of at least 500v, and the probes need to be rated at least 750 AC for safety. DC voltage up to 20 or more will be fine for your use. Continuity with a sound signal is good to have, but the measurement of resistance (ohms) can be useful. Probes can be plug in or permanently wired (probably better wired in for casual use).
Cheap meters will have 3 1/2 digits, that is 1999 maximum display. You won't need more (4 1/2 digits or 19999 will be unnecessarily expensive). You might find super cheap at 2 1/2 digits (199), and that will be good enough for your intended use. Accuracy will be good enough with a cheap meter, for your use a reading of 227 v when it is really 230 is not going to lose you sleep, and both could kill you if unexpected.
Some of the cost of expensive meters is being able to auto range, just put the prods on and it will select the best reading automatically. Or not being turned into a brick when checking continuity on live wires.
One thing I would recommend for anyone touching electrics is a mains indicator pen. Not the old transparent screwdriver with a neon inside. Things have moved on. The pens have a small plastic tab at the front which does not need to touch the wire, just be close. If there is mains in the wire, the pen lights up and beeps. No need to have bare wires to test. I use one of these by reflex before doing any work near electrics, and I know of two occasions where doing that check has meant I am still here to type this. (Circuit breakers that didn't). €10 will get me one over here.
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One thing I would recommend for anyone touching electrics is a mains indicator pen. Not the old transparent screwdriver with a neon inside. Things have moved on. The pens have a small plastic tab at the front which does not need to touch the wire, just be close. If there is mains in the wire, the pen lights up and beeps. No need to have bare wires to test. I use one of these by reflex before doing any work near electrics, and I know of two occasions where doing that check has meant I am still here to type this. (Circuit breakers that didn't). €10 will get me one over here.
I still have the one with the neon light in it, didn't know such things existed, thanks for the tip.
peedee
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Multi-meters have moved on a little since the days of the AVO8 like those I used at school! 🤣
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Thanks, all. Just the sort of help I need, and exactly what this forum is best at.
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OOOOO !! All those AVO 8s -- enough to make my credit/debit cards cry themselves to sleep !! The main problem with them is the damage they can receive in the normal course of events and they are extremely delicate items. So as suggested above settle for a simple cheapo one ~~ easy to replace should an accident happen and much cheaper than having an " 8" recalibrated if indeed you can find somebody to do it !
If you do get yourselves Meters MultiRange Pulleese do not try to measure the resistance / impedance of the CEGB Substation !! I can just hear the TING as the needle wraps around the stop ~~ ouch
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Talking of AVO8 I bought this one made into a lamp at a craft fair
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We had an Avo 8 for our workshop,it was housed in a lovely leather case.
When apprentices, we would be given somewhere furthest from the workshop to do some measuring.On arriving,we opened the case only to find the Avo 8 removed,and a lump of wood in its place.
We would get back to the workshop to see all the mechanics sniggering.
The joys of doing an apprenticeship.
There is also an Avo 8 in the background on the TV show the Bidding Room.
ABM I was CEGB and then NPower
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I have several modern digital multi meters both at home and in work.
But I also have an AVO multi minor at home that my dad gave me as a boy. Still works perfectly.
http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/multiminor.html
My dad has a full size AVO in the leather case that he inherited from his dad and which I will inherit in due course. All three of us worked as Area Electricity Board Engineers at some stage, at one point I seem to recall they were standard issue to Area Board Engineers. I have fond memories of my time there although I have had a couple of jobs since taking voluntary severance......
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Ordered one this evening, for around £7:70, so all I have to do once it arrives is to work out all the functions.🤔
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NellietH
To start with place all pre--conceived ideas in the non--recyclabe Bin, then quietly nestle down and read any handbook thats with it
. always allowing for the fact that the Good Book might just be an appalling translation into dog~ English of course Fozzie, delighted to hear that you are EX~ CEGB & N--Power Trained I was a 50volt communications man with Gods Poor Orphans, aka George Percival Owen !!
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Multi-meters are great tools if you know what you are doing with them.
Mains voltage will kill!
For simple testing circuit testing I use a volt stick - simple safe as its a non contact tool ( but only on low voltage 240volt)
For more investigation, I use a two prong circuit tester, and this also is useable on extra low voltage 12 volts. They are simple, just Led lights. And quite robust.
That said, if you need more detail information then, its a good quality calibrated meter.
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My earlier testing regime consisted of a pea bulb and two wires soldered on for 12V situations and a pygmy bulb in a holder plus a couple of wires for 240V use. Gone all 'high tech' now with a £10 multimeter.
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...For more investigation, I use a two prong circuit tester, and this also is useable on extra low voltage 12 volts. They are simple, just Led lights. And quite robust.
That reminds me ... I've got something like that knocking about somewhere. 🤔
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Well better than being dumped somewhere
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I will let you know just what dialect the instructions are printed in when the unit arrives.
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When you get it, just do a youtube search of it, someone will have tested it and filmed it
JK
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Cheers, JK, will do.👍
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Glad to say that the meter arrived today, and the instruction are in plain English. I just have to get used to the unit now.
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We carry a cheap multimeter for fault finding as others have said. One did fail, but at that price replacement didn’t hurt. However, there’s a high risk of corrosion on caravan connections due to dampness in storage and only periodic use. A corroded terminal may allow a full 12V reading but won’t pass enough current to operate its load. For testing you need a car lightbulb with one side wired to a spike and the other to a crocodile clip for earthing. You can buy a proprietary tester cheaply, though an old fashioned car bulb with its higher wattage may be better for identifying high resistance in corroded terminals. For short circuits, switch off the suspect circuit, then switch on a functioning 12v light. Briefly switch the suspect on while watching for any dimming of the functioning light. If it does dim, then the fault is drawing power.
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