2018- NC 500 Scottish Road Trip
The 22 September arrived and it signalled the start of our second road trip of the year. In June we spent three weeks touring the west coast of America in an RV and now we were to spend another three weeks touring Scotland with our caravan. Our intention was to travel east to west exploring the North Coast 500 route before heading onto Skye then returning to our Derbyshire home.
So with all the planning done and with a fully laden Land Rover the morning had arrived. After resolving an electrical issue with our caravan that delayed us by two hours, we set off on the first leg to Durham. Three hours and 150 miles later of a trouble free journey, we arrived at our overnight stop. In preparing for the trip I had installed a satellite dome on the caravan but having never had one before, I totally forgot about the need to avoid trees and other satellite blockages and parked the van right next to a load of trees, so that was the end of that self-contained excitement for the night.
We love Durham as a site, we have used it a number of times over the last 3 years with our son being in the University. The site is literally just off the A1 and has everything to offer, great facilities, park and ride into Durham and fantastic wardens. But with our son having moved on to pastures new, this time Durham was for us at the start of our adventure which just added to the rich fabric of emotions and memories at this site. When we had stayed previously at Durham for graduation, it was strange to see mums and dads emerging from caravans in their formal attire to attend the ceremony, but I’m sure this has gone on for many years and will into the future.
The following morning we woke to start the second hop to Edinburgh. Having quickly packed we left Durham, ‘farewell old friend…until next time.’ The journey for this leg was a similar easy mileage of around 150 miles and before we knew it we were approaching site in Edinburgh. As we got into the centre, the roads became really rough and constant pot holes became tiring. Eventually we arrived on site and to be honest, were glad to do so. Edinburgh Caravan and Motorhome site is a great site in a slightly unusual location as you almost seem to driving through a housing estate to get to it, but once there it is a complete oasis with manicured grounds tended by the hard working wardens. The site also has a lot to offer with a bus service from within the actual grounds. We had stayed here just once before when attending the military tattoo and it served us well then also. This time, I had remembered the dome and looked for a pitch with no obstructions. Having found the perfect spot, I reversed the van onto the pitch taking care to not disturb fellow residents dosing in the afternoon sun.
So having pitched and refuelled at the nearby Morrisons, it was time for the dome to prove its worth. So on went the controller and with all lights for all satellites flashing at once we were confused. After several more attempts, I did what we all do and headed out to find a man..with a dome. There I met Harry, who after explaining my plight, came back to the van with us. Although unable to help, he was a very nice man to talk to and so we said farewells and resorted to the coax.
Our next leg was to Culloden Moor, the start of the NC500. As we headed up the A9 I had the caravan club instructions for approaching the site in my possession but am ashamed to say I committed the cardinal sin of following the sat nav and left the A9 too early and turned onto the B851. The white line disappeared very early on and I sank into my seat hoping for the best. I never really been the luckiest of chaps in some areas and this wasn’t about to change and today would be no different as I realised that it was bin day and as I approached the next corner, I knew what I would see and I suspect you do as well, yes, the bin lorry. Well as we met, they looked at me and I looked at them and I just knew what they were thinking. Moving on and having put myself in the well-used dog house we arrived on site. We had never been to this site before and found it to be arranged in almost a one way sort of system. We are a fairly long unit with a 5 meter tow car and 8.13 meter caravan and we found some of the man-made barriers difficult to negotiate. Within minutes of entering site I experienced difficulty negotiating a turn with white painted stones and fences posts making the turn impossibly tight for a longer unit. Front wheels climbing over rocks and caravan edging ever closer to white painted boulders. Something had to give and the boulders it was being shifted out of the way!
Once pitched in a perfect dome friendly way, I tried again. No, it was not to be despite repeated attempts. So two phone calls later to my service engineer and Avtex who manufacture the dome, a faulty controller was diagnosed and a new one would be posted to our next site. How very efficient.
The following day, we left site to explore the delights of Inverness. As we were leaving in the Land Rover, I noticed that the original natural exit straight down to the barrier had been deliberately fenced off and the exit route now entailed driving around the perimeter of the site. This was fine apart for the sharp left turn around the toilet block. As I made the turn without the caravan on I knew it would be a challenge when hooked up, especially if the pitch nearest the turn was in use, which at that time it wasn’t. After a few hours of retail therapy we returned to site only to see that the pitch nearest the tight turn was in now in use.
So the next morning came and we were to travel again, this time to Brora, further up the A9 just 63 miles away. Leaving site we carefully negotiated the tight left hand turn with success only possible by inching onto an occupied pitch. From speaking to others on our journey north, I know that on that day, other people were watching on and noted how tight it was for us. Anyway, free of the site bureaucracy, we were soon back on the A9 heading north.
The miles passed by quickly and we turned our attention to the directions to Brora provided by club. They suggested that just a short way out of Brora itself, we should ignore a sign for Dalchalm to our right and continue until we saw a Caravan Club sign for the Brora site. So having passed the Dalchalm sign, we were then looking for the Caravan Club sign for the site. A right turn came up with a generic brown camping sign and a sign for Green Park caravan came up, but we found that confusing and carried on. However after a mile or so, we knew we had missed the turn and that we needed to turn around. After finding a convenient layby we turned around and headed for the turn we had seen. We entered to road and were then ready for the ‘tight railway crossing’ as described in the directions. The bridge is on a left hand bend and as we got into the bridge, it was clear that at 8ft wide, we were not going to cross without damage being caused. With just centimetres either side I stopped knowing I was beaten and unhooked. I drove the Land Rover across the bridge and then took the caravan across on the mover. A van appeared behind us and I apologised for the delay but he was fine. We hooked up again and drove down the road towards the site. As we passed the Green Park caravan site a Scottish lady commented how the bridge is no longer suitable for the larger units on the road today. I remember thinking at that time that I had booked this entire trip through the club who know exactly how long and wide we are so how is this situation even possible.
Once on site, we pitched and whilst doing so, I saw the post lady arrive at the office with a box under her arm. Yes, it was my dome controller. So having disconnected the old controller and installed the new, the dome fired up and we were connected to Astra 2, boom!
The following day, we wanted a slower day, so after a late start headed off site into Brora. I had decided to explore and alternative way off site so instead of going across the narrow railway bridge, headed towards Dalchalm. With no caravan attached I had no real concerns. In a short space of time we were crossing the same railway line as we crossed on the bridge, this time via a railway crossing. However I noted a sign indicating a risk of lorries bottoming out whilst on the crossing. Within minutes we were in Brora. The essentials were available from a local Coop and we lunched at the Sutherland Inn. This is a great place to eat, very welcoming with great food and value for money. Well done all of you.
Returning to site, I spoke with our neighbour, a lady travelling and towing on her own. She was also towing a twin wheel caravan of similar length to us and we discussed the best options for leaving site. The railway crossing was the favoured option. The discussion then turned to our respective destinations. When I explained were headed for Thurso, she asked if I was aware of Berriedale Braes, a stretch of road on the A9 between Brora and Thurso, the route we must follow in order to avoid single track roads. My look gave her the answer she needed so she explained that it was a very steep decline and equally challenging incline culminating in a left hand hair pin bend where two articulated lorries travelling in opposite directions be unable to pass at the same time. This conversation got my attention so with a bit of research we located Berriedale Braes on the internet and utube and suddenly understood the issues involved. So with this stretch of road just 20 miles away, we decided to go and check it out before we needed to tow. Once there, we were presented with a 13% decline which went on for ever and then the same incline on the other side with a hairpin at the top to raise a few eye browse. So having driven it and understood it, I was happy we could cope with it and returned to camp.
So the next morning we prepared for the next leg and whilst packing up a chap walked by and a discussion ensued. He had been on Culloden Moor our previous site as we had departed and recognised some of site routing issues for larger units that I have spoken about in this blog. Farewells said, we departed. So we headed for the level crossing and once there inched across it. There were no issues at all and with a sigh of relief we turned onto the main road and headed for the second challenge of the day, Berriedale Braes. So as the miles rolled on a prepared myself for the challenge. Before I knew it I drove passed the sign and slowed to second gear, then low box. The next few seconds turned into years as the descent went on and on and to my relief, the Land Rover held the caravan back fabulously and once the decent ended the challenge for the ascent began, we powered up the hill and then the left hand hair pin came into view. We powered around the bend with no problems and the relief rushed through me. The rest of the drive was a breeze and Thurso was soon here. The site is very open and easy to access and you are immediately stunned by the views of the crashing waves.
The next day, we chilled and walked on the beach. The views, scenery and photograph opportunities are breath taking. The mood lighting provided by the sun as it danced through the clouds changed every few minutes as the waves crashed onto the beach around us. Scenic appetite more than satisfied we returned to camp.
The following day, I had booked a visit to a local Gin distillery, Rock Rose in Dunnet. We turned up for the 11:00am tour, along with several others. This is a fantastic place this is to visit, a self-made business by two intelligent people creating a fantastic product and can only be recommended. The following day, we due to move site further along the NC 500 to a CL on Loch Eriboll in Lairg. However, as the day progressed the wind grew and was eventually reaching 60 miles an hour. I decided it was simply too dangerous to tow in that so we booked another night at Thurso. However, we did venture out in the Land Rover and followed part of the route we had intended to take on our onward journey which was onto the A896. This was a single track road with passing places and it was obvious that although this may be’ doable’ in a motorhome, our outfit was simply too long and wide to even fit into the passing places and it would be silly to even attempt it. But whist sampling the road, we came across an amazing Café called Weavers at Rhitongue, Lairg. The café sold home prepared food and I sampled the best home-made tomato soup I have ever had. After our stop off we returned to camp, and the decision was made to alter our route and travel to our next site, Kinlochewe via the A9, and yes, back through Berriedale Braes .
The next morning came and the wind had dropped as quickly as it came. We broke camp and travelled 138 miles to our next stop. Kinlochewe is a great site sitting under the shadow of the magnificent Beinn Eighe mountain and within the national nature reserve. The sun was shining as we arrived and we quickly set up camp. Within the hour, the heavens opened and torrents of rain battered the caravan. This was an event that would be repeated during the coming days.
The following day, the weather had not improved so we drove to Gairlock and discovered Gairlock farm and garden shop. This was a great find as the shop stocked almost everything you could ask for food, tools , clothing and much much more. The weather was in for the day so we dropped into The Old Inn at Gairlock. The food at this place is home-made and absolutely fantastic, so if you are in the area, I can certainly recommend it. Appetite satisfied for the rest of the day, we returned to camp.
The following day, weather again mixed, we decided to travel to Applecross which would give us views to our next intended destination, Skye. We were due to travel to Staffin campsite on Skye as our next destination, however, as we arrived at Kinlockewe, we noted signs about road works at Stromeferry. Apparently only cars towing caravans with a total length of 10 meters were being let through, so with our total length being around 13 meters, we could clearly not travel that way onto Skye. The only alternative to get around these works was to take a 138 mile detour, even to reach Skye, a prospect that I considered could not be justified. So with a heavy heart, the decision was made to cancel our visit to Skye during this trip. Although disappointed initially, we soon turned it round into a positive in that it simply meant we would have to come again, this time maybe sampling Lewis and Harris which is something I have always wanted to do. So the trip to Applecross was to at least try and get a view of Skye. As we travelled, it became apparent that there were two routes to Applecross, the coast road or a track across the mountain called Bealach Na Ba, which I know stands for pass of the cattle. Having chosen this route, I quickly discovered why it had been called this. It was the steepest mountain pass I have ever driven with multiple hairpin bends. I was grateful to be in the land rover and also to reach Applecross. There we struck lucky as the clouds had lifted and we could get a clear view of Skye. We discovered the Applecross Inn, a fantastically unique pub full of charm and character and walls of black board menus listing delightful home cooked dishes. Having selected soup, we were not disappointed. A group of school children entered the pub with their teacher; they were from Applecross primary school but had been busy making jams from berries that they had picked themselves. The funds from the sales were going to fund a trip for them all to ‘Harris or Paris’ I was told, so yes, I soon had a jarin my hand, how could you resist that! Lunch over, we returned to camp..via the coast road I might add. Once back, we re- hashed the plan for the following week and decided that we would travel next to Bunree instead of Skye to link up with our existing plan.
The following day, we woke to rain lashing the caravan. However after an hour or so, this cleared to reveal the snowy cap left on Bienn Eighe. Soon the sunshine came so we walked in the mountains for the day, spotting deer and golden eagles.
Sunday morning arrived, the day of our departure and closure of the site for the winter. We had heard about the winds and rain that were due to hit Scotland and decided to get underway as soon as we could. Little did we know what the Scottish weather had in store for us later. We left site saying farewell to Bienn Eighe who was playing hide and seek in the clouds.
Our journey this day would be an easy 134 miles south to Bunree Caravan Club site. We came round a corner on the A82 to find a car on its roof, an accident that had only just happened. With matters in hand by other motorists at the scene we journeyed on to site. As we neared Fort William the weather started to close in and as we turned up on site, rain and wind lashed the caravan. There were no options other than to accept the rain as we set up as it crept layer by layer closer to the skin. Having done the necessary, I entered the caravan, rain dripping from every item. A’ wee dram’ later and dry clothes, things felt slightly better but then my eye drifted to a caravan behind me who had an awning previously set up which was billowing in the wind like an inflating hot air balloon. As I watched, I saw the owner and his partner repeatedly come out to peg the awning down. But when I looked again, I could see the battle was being lost. I pulled on my wet clothing from earlier in the day and went to help. It was almost impossible. I held a corner of the awning with my tightest grip as we shouted between us what needed to be done, Another fellow caravanner arrived to assist as the owner tried to collapse the awning as quickly as he could. But then a gust. So strong, my usual strong grip seemed like putty and the awning was ripped away from us and over the caravan roof. Battle lost we recovered the mangled poles and stashed them under the van. We jointly fought with the material and the wind to release it from the awning rail. Rain water poured down my top. Awning stuffed in the boot of a car, we parted company for the day.
That evening, ‘Storm Leslie’ lashed the site. Our Land Rover proudly protected us, rocking from side to side.
The following morning, Storm Leslie had apparently left, leaving a grumpy murky wake in its path. We journeyed into Fort William, the rain still lashing down. As the morning let the afternoon in, the wind returned. We returned to site, the wind and rain growing, we watched on as a new outfit pitched in the sheeting rain. That night we were battered again, the wind sea and rain roaring around as we tried to sleep. By morning, the wind had dropped but the rain was incessant. Stories of flooding on other sites were spreading between vans. This was our final day at Bunree so with the weather as it was, we decided it had to be a slow one. So chores completed, we headed for a very slow and long lunch. We drove round to the nearby Corran ferry. Having parked the Land Rover we travelled as foot passengers for free across the loch. The Inn at Ardgour, just yards from the ferry was the intended and recommended destination. The surroundings were not exactly what we expected but the food was very good. After a couple of hours, we headed back out into the rain and back onto the ferry. Once back at site, we settled in and shut the weather out. After a couple of hours, a knock at the caravan door. I thought the worst, that it would be a warden telling us that we must move, but I opened the door to my neighbour from the other night whos awning we had tried to save standing there with a bottle of red wine for me. How kind, he didn’t need to have done that. We chatted and then he bid farewell knowing we were leaving in the morning.
By morning the wind and rain had stopped and clouds lifted to reveal the amazing vista that had been hiding in the mist and rain around us. We packed, for once in the sun shine. We hooked up and as we rolled, my neighbour approached us again. Warm chat and hand shake later, we parted company. Our destination that day would be Blaire Drummond Caravan Park in Sterling, just 80 or so miles away. The A82 across Glencoe provides fantastic and unforgettable views with every layby taken up with people capturing their memories. However, it is not the widest of roads and with articulated trucks, tour buses and shear road edges we had to breath in several times.
We arrived at Blair Drummond to find a highly polished affiliated site within a beautiful walled garden. The sun was shining, such a relief from the dreary last few days. We were booked to stay two nights here before heading south to Kendal on the Friday. However, news was coming in about storm Callum, a storm with predicted 60-70 mile an hour winds which due to hit on the day of travel to Kendal. So we decided to run. We didn’t want the stress. So the following morning we packed and cancelled our second night. It was a shame really as it seemed a really great site with plenty to do around it. We headed south and were soon on the M9, wide fast roads again, a relief. We ate the miles and chased the ever increasing arrival time on the sat nav. Finally, we were there, momentary relief as the narrow approach caused concern. Then, no, an outfit coming out from the site on the same narrow road at 3:00pm. How could this be? We inched passed each other in a passing space and rolled to a stop at reception. My wife mentioned the outfit leaving at 3:00pm. Apparently he had been asked to leave but had failed to do so by midday. Booked in, we headed slowly into site through the narrow leafy lanes. Setting up, the rain spots started, but we were lucky as once sorted, connected and inside, the heavens opened. Storm Callum had landed.
The following day, we went into Kendal and explored the town. As the day wore on, the wind started to build. Overnight, the wind and rain lashed the caravan and by morning, torrents of water were running down the sites roads requiring paddling, even get to the blocks. We packed up in the howling rain, changing clothes three times before leaving site and then were assisted by the very kind wards to do so.
It was not the day to be towing as the gusts rocked the caravan from side to side. After three hours or so, we gently eased on to our drive. Relief!
We have loved touring Scotland even though the weather was not always kind. All these experiences, good and bad are memories to explore and recall in time to come.
Comments
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Well that was quite an adventure even if the routes and sites had to be changed, but you took the sensible option. When we lived in the north of Scotland we felt that Autumn started in late August and by October the firsts snows would usually appear, sometimes even earlier. This year Autumn certainly got into full swing quite early! Hope you have better weather if you make a return visit.
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We had a similar situation in 2011 with Storm Katia!!! We used many of the sites you did on your trip. Could I just add that a story is always enlivened by adding photographs.
David
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Thanks David, have worked out how to size them now
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Thanks for a great in depth story. We have same size outfit and it has given me a good insight to the trip I have planned for next year. I will not be using the single track roads. That would be foolhardy. So with your views of roads and another look at the map I will still be able to follow the route within reason.
thanks
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Thanks for an in depth report on the NC 500. I am planning the same route next year. We have same size outfit. Your information about the roads has been a great help. We have given ourselves two weeks for the trip. Starting in Bedfordshire. So fingers crossed we will have less of the windy weather.
Paul
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