Mains Switching off when connected to car?
When I connect or disconnect my car's electrics to the caravan the mains switch in the caravan turns off. I had never noticed this happening in my old caravan but only since getting a new van with Alde heating. (This is because the clock setting on the Alde Control console resets every time the mains is switched off).
I now know that I can buy an Alde accessory that gives a battery back up that would stop the Alde clock resetting.
Can anyone tell me:-
Is it normal for the caravan's mains to switch off when hooking up?
Is the Alde battery back up easy to fit?
Thanks
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Thanks for that very quick reply, I'll have to get the battery back up.
No it's the mains switch in the van that switches off when I connect/disconnect the car to the van.
If I switch the mains switch to "on" in the van and then connect to EHU the mains switch remains on!
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Is it normal for the caravan's mains to switch off when hooking up?
Yes unless you have a very long EHU lead on your travels.
Seriously - When you disconnect EHU lead it does not 'turn off' mains on any caravan that I have had. When next plugged into EHU everything on 230v is live again. Alde clock will have stopped however and time incorrect as on the microwave clock.
I never trouble to set the clock on the Alde system. We move every 5 days. Before we move I switch off the Alde as in cooler weather the pump will circulate if he ambient temperature is below the chosen temperature if left on.
When we arrive at site I switch on the heating and increase temp to our day time preference. Come bed time I turn down the temp. When I get up next morning I turn it up again.
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Do you mean that the RCD (The main switch in the caravan consumer unit which switches off all mains power, and has a test button on it) trips when you connect the car. If so, there is a fault situation which should be investigated.
Although it would be technically possible, I have never heard of a system which intentionally disconnects the mains supply when you connect to the car ..... and I can't really see any reason for such an arrangement.
(A loud warning sound to remind you to disconnect the EHU might be a good idea though!)
EDIT: There seems to be some confusion because you use the term 'hooking-up'. I read your post as meaning you are plugging your 'van into the car. Others seem to be reading it as in ElectricHookUp (EHU) to the mains.
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Is it not the 12v habitation relay which cuts the 12v supply to caravan when connected to the car, apart from the fridge and battery charging.
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I'm sorry I've confused things haven't I ?
It's when I "plug" the caravan into the car that the control panel I have photographed switches off.
Hope the photograph clarifies what I mean.
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Don
I'm not Nothing to do with the caravan being connected to the EHU mains it's the caravan being plugged into car's 7pin connector
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I asked the same question as I originally posted to the manufacturer of my caravan , Coachman (That's was the end of July).
I've just received their reply, which answers my question, but I do find it strange. Coachman's response is
I can confirm that when the caravan is connected to a towing vehicle the master switch will switch off, the only item that will receive power is the fridge."
Thanks for the responses received
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The control panel you pictured is surely a 12v item, as is the Alde controller? Well it is in our caravan.
When you connect to the car, the habitation relay in the van does disconnect all the 12v in the van, but will allow the 12v element in the fridge to receive power directly from the car. It all works automatically.
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I am rather confused as to what is actually being described, however, with an electronic panel it is common for everything to switch off when you disconnect the EHU. In our Motorhome once the EHU is disconnected and the engine started the panel is dead with only the fridge powered from the engine. When you stop and want to use the habitation battery or mains you have to press the "on" or nothing will work.
Obviously with a Motorhome you can do more with regard to starting the engine. For example, if the EHU is connected the engine won't start (Yes, I discovered that!), also the step is automatically retracted. Fairly foolproof although I expect that in due course I will find something that isn't!
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Mine does exactly the same on our Bailey Unicorn. I usually switch it off myself. Force of habit, because if we are putting the van in storage I don't want the battery drained by anything other than the alarm or tracker. However, when I have forgotten it isolates as you describe. However, it does not really control the 240 volts side, just operates some of the functions when on 240 volts, such as the Alde. However it will still operate them with the 240 volts off on gas. I don't think you have to have it on to get the plugs and microwave to work. Although must admit I always switch it on first, so have never tried.
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Obviously with a Motorhome you can do more with regard to starting the engine. For example, if the EHU is connected the engine won't start (Yes, I discovered that!), also the step is automatically retracted. Fairly foolproof although I expect that in due course I will find something that isn't!
Yep I have seen a MH start engine and then step out onto the step which is no longer there.
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It's much easier to walk through the Motorhome and step down (if it's there!). My wife in particular finds it difficult to enter via the cab doors - a big step up and heavy doors.
I do worry about modern control panels. If it packs up there is no way of getting 12 or 240 volts.
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Regards to the Alde clock back up..If you go to YouTube and follow The Trudgians, Dan Trudgian just done a VLOG on this very subject a few weeks back. There is some soldering involved but it is relatively easy to do.
Can;t answer on the other problem sorry
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Correct, it's a safeguard. Leaving the mains on would be of no benefit to clocks anyway and all switches should be off to allow fridge to work shilst travelling.
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SM - how did you find that thread?
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To answer your last question, yes the Alde battery backup is very easy to fit.
There are a number of ‘add ons’ available from Alde, with small plugs which plug into specific connectors on the back of your Alde controller. The hardest part is sorting through various drawings to find the one which you need.
Another useful add on is a link to your incoming mains supply, to measure actual consumption, which will rise if you have a kettle on, for example. On arrival you key in the site’s max supply current, which Alde treats as a ceiling, limiting its own demands when competing with things like a kettle would cause the trip to operate. Kettle boiled and off - Alde increases it’s drawn current.
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, the thing is you only do it once
