The Beer Stalker - 1) Low Moor, Whitby
I have enjoyed camping for many years. I have often used my trips away in the caravan to explore local watering houses and hostelries with the main aim of trying some local and regional real ales. Having failed to set-up a brewery of my own a few years ago (the Shire Horse Brewery if you are curious) I still consider myself something of an expert and a bit of a “Beer Stalker” on the quiet. Anyway, this combination got me thinking on how I could incorporate these interests into an occasional “Club Together” item for the lovers of decent beer. So here we have an occasional piece which will highlight an interesting pub, beer or brewery that is easily accessible from either a club site or CL. Hopefully, you will find it interesting!
A few weeks ago I found myself caravanning at Low Moor Site, Sneaton which is just a hop, skip and jump from glorious Whitby. Sadly, Low Moor could do with a touch of tender loving care but it is in a lovely position and offers a very peaceful and restful place to pitch your awning so don't let it's need for a manicure to put you off a visit!
There are a couple of nearby pubs offering cask ales but my feeling is that recent poor trade has hit the quality of their ales to the point that I don't feel confident in recommending them sadly. If you want to try them you may be luckier than me. The nearest is the “Wilson Arms” in Sneaton which is featured in the 2012 CAMRA Good Beer Guide. Turn left at the red painted gates that lead to the entrance of Low Moor and follow the road all the way to Sneaton village. At the sharp bend turn right into the dead end road. You will find the “Wilson Arms” at the end. It is signposed before you get to the bend so it should be easy to find. There is a fair sized car park but parts of the pub outside don't look too hopeful. Don't let that put you off because inside, the pub is very comfortable and clean. Cask Ales on offer when I was there included Black Sheep Bitter, Timothy Taylor's Landlord and John Smith's Bitter. I tried the Black Sheep which was just okay and the Landlord which was past its best sadly.
The landlord is a friendly, camp sort of guy and it looks as if his partner cooks the food. I'd guess that the food was pretty good and there is a Steak Night on Thursday which is probably worth a try. We visited on a Sunday evening and the staff outnumbered the customers which goes some way to explaining the poor beer quality.
Continue on from Sneaton along the B1416 and you will arrive at Ruswarp. As you cross the River Esk and the level crossing by Ruswarp Station immediately on the right is the “Bridge Inn”. There is no car park but turn left at the pub and there is some parking to be found in the road. The “Bridge Inn” is in a lovely location to be sure but it looks like another struggling pub. It once had a good reputation I gather. I was told that lunchtime food is okay. Beers on offer are mainstream cask brands and nothing exciting. A basic community pub that probably deserves to do well but, like many others, is fighting to survive.
So far, not very exciting I can hear you saying. Well, the best has been left to last and it is a cracker and certainly my Low Moor pub recommendation. At the big red painted gates (if you visit Low Moor you will immediately know what I mean) this time turn right and follow the B1416 until the junction with the A171 Scarborough to Whitby road. Turn left towards Whitby and continue for a short distance until you see the road sign pointing towards a turn-off for Fylingthorpe and Robin Hood's Bay on the right. Continue along this road taking in the spectacular views of the bay (you will experience a real feeling of childhood excitement at seeing the sea for the first time I promise you!), continue through Fylingthorpe village and past “The Fylingdales Inn” (probably worth a visit as it serves cask ales and the food is reputed to be good) until you reach Robin Hood's Bay. Turn right at the junction and on your left in a very short distance is the impressive 19th Century “Victoria Hotel” which boasts great views over the bay.
The pub itself doesn't have any parking that I could see although I do know that there is allocated parking for hotel residents. However, this is not a problem as there is a reasonable sized public car park (Bank Top) opposite the hotel. This has 74 spaces. If this is full then, a very short distance back up the road, is the larger Station Car Park (on the site of the old railway station) which has 207 spaces and public toilets. After 6 pm both car parks offer free parking.
The “Victoria Hotel” has large gardens where you can enjoy a peaceful pint taking in the wonderful views. It has a large, comfortable bar where excellent food is served all day. I can thoroughly recommend the Whitby Haddock in beer batter which is some of the best I have ever tasted. The homemade toffee pudding which comes with its own jug of custard looks delicious and the couple siiting next to us who had ordered a portion where making very satisfied noises! The menu was fairly priced and all the food looked delicious and appealing. For those of you with children the hotel boasts a family room which looked friendly and comfortable. For a special night out there is also a separate restaurant with a different menu and very exclusive views. If the food is anything like the excellent fare served in the bar it should be well worth a visit. Whilst I remember, I should also mention that the staff are efficient, helpful and very friendly.
All this alone would make the “Victoria” a pretty perfect place to visit, but remember that this article is about good cask beer and fortunately, the “Victoria” doesn't disappoint! It usually serves 5 handpumped real ales all of which seemed in good fettle when I was there. If you happen upon one that you are unfamiliar with then a chalk board helpfully gives a brief taste profile and description which more pubs should do in my opinion. However, there is one beer that is a regular here that I was eager to try. That beer is “Strongarm” brewed by Camerons Brewery in Hartlepool. The staff were shifting pints and pints of it on the occasions I was there which says volumes for it's popularity.
Camerons have been slaking thirsts in the north east since 1865 so they should know a little about their craft by now! The fact that they still here though is something of a miracle. In 1975 they were acquired by a shipping company Ellerman Lines (Ellerman also purchased the famous Ipswich brewery of Tollemache Cobbold) probably through no great love of beer but because of the value of their assets. This led to more than 25 years of complete uncertainty for Camerons Brewery. In 1983 the very odd Barclay Brothers purchased the brewery and in 1989 Brent Walker grabbed the baton which was then grabbed by the Wolverhampton and Dudley Breweries in 1992. During this time Camerons struggled to keep their faith in brewing. In 2002 White Knight, private local businessman David Soley, stepped in and purchased the brewery and probably saved it for future drinkers!
I was at the “Victoria Hotel” to try Camerons flagship beer. A beer that had been satisfying the enormous thirsts of Hartlepool shipbuilders for many, many years. A beer that had been named in their honour and their strength - “Strongarm”.
In many ways “Strongarm” is an unfashionable almost old-fashioned beer. It is a ruby red ale. A style of bitter that is still popular in Ireland but has largely been replaced more and more by pale blonde beers here on the mainland. Fortunately, drinkers in the north east have remained faithful to their traditions and strong brown ales and ruby ales have always remained popular in the region.
“Strongarm” is a delicious beer and surprisingly easy to drink. It weighs in at a respectful 4%. In the glass it looks a delight with a ruby red body and a large, dense creamy head. It is brewed with crystal and pale ale malts and a blend of 3 hops (Fuggles, Target, Goldings) which all goes some way to explaining its complexity. The aroma of the beer hints at a rich treat with toffee and malt coming to the fore. The taste is a creamy mouthfeel and complex sweetness followed by a heavenly bitterness that is never harsh. The beer is an absolute delight and leads me to believe that those thirsty shipbuilders knew their beer and that we all have David Soley to thank for keeping a tradition strong!
Whilst Camerons beers have a wide distribution in the north east they are not widely available ouside of their traditional trading area in draught form. That said, you may spot bottled “Strongarm” in some branches of Waitrose and Tesco if you are lucky. Better still, visit Low Moor Caravan Club Site and try a pint or two of delicious "Strongarm Bitter" yourself!
I hope you have enjoyed reading this little pub visit from Low Moor. If you have then I promise to take you for a pint or two after my next trip out in the caravan!
Comments
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If you've read my first "Beer Stalker" featuring Low Moor, Whitby I'd be really interested to know what you think as I intend making them an occasional series.
If you think it was too long or contained too much detail I'd really like to know.
With your constructive feedback I hope to make it a "Club Together" item that will be both readable and useful and which you will look forward to.
I've just seen that you can simply leave me a Smiley Face
if you enjoyed it or a grumpy one
if you didn't!So really, even if you are not one for lots of words there is no excuse for not giving me some useful feedback.
I look forward to hearing from you! In the meantime happy caravanning and happy beer stalking ..........................
CoolUnc aka The Beer Stalker
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