Wild Camping along the south coast of France
The Meek Family
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Our last few days in France were spent travelling along the south coast from Nice in the east to Perpignon in the west, near the border with Spain. What has been wonderful is that we didn't have a plan! Unlike the previous weeks when campsites were booked and we knew where we going, the page was completely blank and it felt exciting!
Southern France has a beautiful, dramatic coastline and you could easily spend weeks pottering along appreciating all that it has to offer. Unfortunately, we only had a few days therefore chose certain highlights that we wanted to see. These included the stunning salt marshes of the Camargue region and the picturesque coastline of Narbonne and Perpignon. We took our time, driving along the coastal roads, stopping for regular photo opportunities, a paddle in the sea and snacks or lunch overlooking a delightful view.
Motorhomes are a common sight in this part of the world as all nationalities flock to the coast for some sun, sea and scenery. Unlike in England, where wild camping is forbidden, in France (and other European countries) there are Aires that welcome motorhomes and are a cheap and easy alternative to campsites, if needs be. I know plenty of well-travelled caravanners and motorhomers regularly use Aires.
Aires vary in size and facilities. Some are tucked away in obscure, enchanting locations whilst other more sterile options can be found at motorway services or in supermarket car parks. The beauty of it is that you can stop where and when it is convenient. So that's exactly what we did as we travelled along the coast.
Prior to leaving Nice, we carried out some research on searchforsites.com to get a good idea of some locations that we might be able to stop at but the choice was extensive. Our first night of wild camping was spent in an enchanting forest location near the village of Fontvieille, near Arles. It was an Aire with a capacity for about 25 motorhomes but when we were there, there were only about 9 or 10. There were facilities to fill up with water and emtpy toilet waste and there was a toilet block but it was closed due to refurbishments. We arrived at dusk and quickly settled in for the night. The following morning we explored the area and were pleasantly surprised to find a little bit of French history on our doorstep. The area that we had stumbled upon had the remains of old windmills that were linked with French writer Alphonse Daubet. A short 30 minute walk from the site took in various locations linked to him. We wandered into the village to the local market where the girls practised their French, ordering olives and biscuits from local traders.
We then headed south to Saint Maries de la Mer, the capital of the Camargue. As we drove into the region, we were excited to spot the famous Camargue wild horses, bulls and pink flamingos wading in the salt marshes. We opted for a campsite on the beach in order to charge up the computers and phones. Arriving in sunshine, we quickly headed out, wandering along the beach and then into the village. In the main square some groups of locals were playing petanque and we sat watching a group play. They seemed to enjoy the audience and answered a few of our questions about the game.
The following day we departed further along the coast, passing Montpellier, Sete, Narbonne and settling at an Aire near Perpignon. It was a large Aire near the port of Barcares and offered water, electricity and wifi. We were one of about 7 or 8 fellow motorhomes. We wandered around the port area in bitterly cold winds and sunshine before having our last drink in French cafe. The following morning the French leg of our European trip came to an end as we crossed the border into Spain.
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Comments
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Good to see that you're not tied to Caravan Club listed sites on your 'adventure'. Think you'll find that stopping on an Aire does not qualify as 'wildcamping' which is generally taken to mean camping on open, unregulated ground without any facilities.
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I agree this isn't really wild camping but it is different to camping in sites and allows more freedom. We do plan to wild camp in Scotland later in the year but our plan for Spain is to stay on sites where we can search for family activities, particularly
for the girls and of course continue to educate them using wifi if and when we have it.0 -
Thanks for the tip Brue. We will check that out. We've wild camped in tents and bivvy bags before but will find out about the outdoor access code for motorhomes.
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